I had a bad day yesterday. It started badly, I worked late, and by the time I was driving home at 6:30, the idea of thinking of something to cook, going to the grocery store, wandering around with a cart, waiting in line, going home, cooking, and washing dishes was enough to make me want to cry.
Usually in this situation I would buy sandwich material, or pick up some sushi, or something, but last night I thought “when’s the last time I had a fast food hamburger?” So I went through the Drive-through (I’m sorry, I mean “drive-thru”) and ordered a chicken burger, a medium french fries, and a Sprite. When I got home, I ate what I had bought. The fries were so salty they leeched all the moisture from my tongue and made it feel like a dessicated starfish washed up on the beach. The bun was flaccid, spongy and flat, with no memory of a grain left in its bleached facade. The chicken patty tasted good, actually, but was lukewarm, overly salted and completely unlike chicken. I’m not complaining - it was seven bucks, it was easy, it was fast, and I was full. But the thing is, I didn’t love it. I didn’t even like it. I spent the rest of the evening in mild discomfort, aware that my body was attempting to process an already over-processed, rock-heavy ball of saltfatsugar. It had been at least a year - probably two - since I’d patronized the golden arches, and I now know I have completely lost my taste for it, and with it, any pleasure I ever took in it.
Which I suppose is good. I don’t eat fast food for a couple of years, and then when I do, my body and tongue go “ick, stop it.” I imagine it’s a similar phenomenon to the one at work when I now have a puff of a cigarette, after quitting 2.5 years ago. I smoked and loved it for years, but now, one puff, and my mouth tastes like a carpet across which a small dog has scootched its rear end. No, thanks.
Former FDA (Food and Drug Administration*) Commissioner David Kessler has written a book called The End of Overeating: Taking Control of the Insatiable American Appetite, in which he talks about what’s happening to the appetites, the food habits, the waistlines of the American (though I certainly think it applies equally to Canadian) public. Not new territory, perhaps, but still interesting.
Kessler’s claims throughout the book are that the ingredients that the vast majority of restaurant foods are heavily laden with (fat, sugar, salt) are not intended to be in such long supply, nor intended to be put into the human body in the quantity and frequency with which we consume it. Processing has become so efficient that restaurants and chemists can simulate and achieve any texture, flavour, consistency, product possible, relatively cheaply and in quantity, and as a result, our brains and tastebuds are being constantly stimulated. I haven’t read the book yet (thought I want to), but I wonder whether he gets into 1) the ways in which food’s roles have changed for us societally; 2) the addiction of food; and 3) the correlation between poverty and obesity.
There’s a line from the movie When Harry Met Sally that goes something like “Restaurants are to people in the eighties what theater was to people in the sixties” and now, a year away from 2010, the trend has only grown. Food has become a form of entertainment, of art. It’s a status symbol, a cultural experience, and above all, food is social. We seldom view food as fuel, anymore. And while the pleasure of eating is certainly a good thing, an important thing, a thing not to be missed, we have gone to excess. Where’s the balance?
Recent years have shown trends toward more healthful practices, with people incorporating words like organic, sustainable, free-range, green, and antioxidant into both their vocabularies and their diets. Butour society is backwards. We talk about the obesity epidemic, we talk about the drain on the healthcare system, we talk about heart disease, cancer, diabetes and other health complications associated with obesity, poor diet, poor nutrition and overeating.
But in 2007, 12.5% of all people in the United States lived below the povery level. I imagine that number is higher now. In a world where people struggle to make ends meet, at a time when the recession is forcing people to work harder, work longer hours to pay their bills, how is it right that I can spend $7.00 to be fed right now, but a single free-range chicken breast - raw - is going to cost me the same?
Fast food, if it is as damaging to our bodies as studies show and nutritionists claim, should not be available at the price it is. We need to make healthy food more readily available, easier, and more affordable and accessible to all. Fast food should be taxed, should be expensive, should not be available more easily and more readily than its saner counterparts. I know people need to take responsibility for their own actions, for their own consumption. But that to me sounds like it’s coming from a place of privilege, from people who have the time, the education and most of all the money. The education to know the benefits of healthy food and nutrition and the drawbacks of fast food, the money to afford to buy healthy, fresh groceries, and the time - find that when you have 2-3 jobs and children - to prepare it every day. We put a McDonald’s, KFC, Taco Bell, Wendy’s, Burger King (on, and on) on every corner, then judge people who eat there.
It seems to me that the specialty, out-of-the-way, expensive stores and restaurants shouldn’t be the ones that carry the organic foods, but the ones that carry the cola and deep-fried saltsticks.
More books about food, consumption and health in today’s climate:
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Plenty: Eating Locally on the 100-Mile Diet by Alisa Smith and J.B. MacKinnon
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Animal, Vegetable, Miracle by Barbara Kingsolver
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Chew On This: Everything You Don't Want to Know About Fast Food by Eric Schlosser and Charles Wilson
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Don't Eat This Book: Fast Food and the Supersizing of America by Morgan Spurlock
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Fast Food Nation by Eric Schlosser
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The Omnivore's Dilemma by Michael Pollan
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The End of Overeating: Taking Control of the Insatiable American Appetite by David Kessler
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Quit Digging Your Grave with a Knife and Fork by Mike Huckabee
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Mindful Eating - A Guide to Rediscovering a Healthy and Joyful Relationship with Food by Jan Chozen Bays
*Am I the only one that thinks there should be a Food Administration, and a Drug Administration, and that having them lumped together is a bit scaryweird? No wonder our meat has antibiotics in it.