Sailboat Refinishing (International Marine Sailboat Library) - Softcover

Casey, Don

Softcover

ISBN 10: 0071486585 ISBN 13: 9780071486583

Publisher: International Marine/Ragged Mountain Press, 2007

Synopsis

Make your boat shine again

No improvement to a tired-looking boat will have a more dramatic impact than refinishing, and few tasks are easier. Here is everything you need to achieve a fabulous finish on your fiberglass boat’s bottom, topsides, deck, spars, wood trim, and belowdeck surfaces while saving time, money, and grief.

What reviewers have said about Don Casey's boat maintenance books:

“Astonishingly clear text and illustrations. The reader can almost feel the hand-holding this book provides through each step.”--Dockside

“I own many books filled with advice, but I strongly suspect that this is the one I will consult most.”--Sailing

“Casey makes tricky points clear in hundreds of illustrations and lively prose.”--SailNet

“If you have an older sailboat, you need this book.”--The Ensign

About this title

About the Author

Don Casey is the author of the universally praisedThis Old Boat, which has led thousands of boat owners through the process of turning a run down productionboat into a first-class yacht.

From the Back Cover

Make your boat shine again

No improvement to a tired-looking boat will have a more dramatic impact than refinishing, and few tasks are easier. Here is everything you need to achieve a fabulous finish on your fiberglass boat’s bottom, topsides, deck, spars, wood trim, and belowdeck surfaces while saving time, money, and grief.

What reviewers have said about Don Casey's boat maintenance books:

“Astonishingly clear text and illustrations. The reader can almost feel the hand-holding this book provides through each step.”--Dockside

“I own many books filled with advice, but I strongly suspect that this is the one I will consult most.”--Sailing

“Casey makes tricky points clear in hundreds of illustrations and lively prose.”--SailNet

“If you have an older sailboat, you need this book.”--The Ensign

Don Casey is the author of the universally praised This Old Boat, which has led tens of thousands of boatowners through the process of turning a run-down production boat into a first-class yacht, and of Don Casey’s Complete Illustrated Sailboat Maintenance Manual, which includes Sailboat Refinishing along with five other boat maintenance classics.

Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.

SAILBOAT REFINISHING

By DON CASEY

The McGraw-Hill Companies, Inc.

Copyright © 2013 Don Casey
All rights reserved.

ISBN: 978-0-07-148658-3

Contents

Introduction
The Basics
Understanding Paints and Other Marine Coatings
Good Results from Good Tools
Preparation
Inside the Cabin
Ready to Paint
Painting
Plastic Laminates
Wood Finishes
Oiling Wood Trim
Sealers
Varnishing: Preparation
Varnishing: The Initial Coats
"Laying On" the Finish Coats
Below the Waterline
Antifouling Bottom Coatings
Bootstripe
Anti-Blister Coating
Topsides and Deck
Gelcoat Repair
Two-Part Linear Polyurethane
Refinishing the Deck
Nonskid Overlay
Finishing Touches
Refinishing the Mast
Graphics
Index
Copyright page

Excerpt

CHAPTER 1

THE BASICS

Good results depend as much on selecting the right product as on applicationtechnique. To help you choose wisely, this initial chapter contains use andapplication information for common marine coatings and systems. Also included isthe life expectancy of the resulting finish and the safety precautions, if any,that are required.

Another essential ingredient in achieving the best possible finish is goodtools. Good-quality tools almost always allow you to do the job better and getit done quicker as well. The cost difference between a poor-quality brush and atop-quality one is just a few dollars, and the difference between a cheap rollercover and a good one even less, so there is little reason to compromise. For afirst-class finish, select only the best painting tools. The second part of thischapter shows you how to choose the right tools, how to use them, and how tomaintain them.

The third requirement common to all refinishing jobs is good preparation. Whiledifferent coatings call for different preparation schedules, many of thespecific steps are the same. Labeling and detailing those steps in a singlelocation saves a great deal of unnecessary repetition. This part of the chapteris, in effect, an illustrated glossary applicable to the refinishing projectsindividually detailed in the remainder of the guide.

No matter what refinishing project you have in mind, you need the informationcontained in this first chapter. Don't skip over it. Most of it will not berepeated, and a good grasp of the basics is essential to achieving satisfactoryresults.

UNDERSTANDING PAINTS AND OTHER MARINE COATINGS

Faced with hundreds of different products, each one claiming to be the best, howdo you make a selection? The process is significantly simplified if you know theclass of product most appropriate for the refinishing job you have in mind.

Marine coatings are invariably formulated for a specific purpose—e.g.,providing a hard, clear protective coating for wood, giving a high-gloss finishto dull gelcoat, or discouraging growth on the underwater portions of a boat.Any product on the shelf intended for your purpose will do the job, but not allwill do it equally well. Performance is often dependent upon a keyingredient—without chili pepper, it just ain't Mexican food.

It is this key ingredient that gives a coating its definingcharacteristics—long life, high gloss, abrasion resistance, ease ofapplication, or whatever. Since every paint manufacturer starts with the samebasic ingredients, all the products in the category defined by that ingredientexhibit similar qualities regardless of the manufacturer.

That is not to say there aren't differences between brands—thereare—but a difference in the recipe doesn't stop it from being anenchilada. If you want the longest-life paint, every manufacturer will recommendtheir two-part linear polyurethane. Likewise, if you want to oil your teakwithout darkening it, you will hear tung oil mentioned repeatedly.

What follows is an illustrated list of the various classes of marine coatingsand related products (such as thinners). With few exceptions, all the paints andvarnishes and sealants on the chandlery shelves fall into one of thesecategories, and you should be able to determine whether or not a particularclass of product—and, by extension, a specific product brand—willsatisfy your refinishing requirements.

WHICH BRAND IS THE BEST?

Perhaps you're wondering why not just cut to the chase and recommend products bybrand name. After all, if there are differences between brands, then one brandmust be better than the others, right?

It depends on what you're evaluating. For example, one manufacturer mayformulate a paint that outlasts its competitors by 20 percent, but perhaps theextra durability comes at the expense of flow characteristics. Which is moreimportant to you, a glassy finish or an extra season of durability?

It gets worse. The paint or varnish that seems to have them all beat inConnecticut may well lose its composure under the relentless sun of SouthFlorida. In fact, some products carrying the same brand name are formulateddifferently for use in different parts of the country. Even if the formula isn'tsupposed to be different, the actual product often varies from batch tobatch—chemical suppliers change, machinery fails, operators drift off.It's paint, not pharmaceuticals.

Still, some brands are undoubtedly better than others, and consumer boatingmagazines regularly run comparative tests of marine coatings. Such evaluationscan be helpful in selecting a particular brand, but don't be surprised if theresults vary between publications, or if this year's test results differ fromthose of only a couple of years ago. There are just too manyvariables—surface preparation, application, geographic location, weatherpatterns, boat use, water salinity, even evaluation criteria.

Don't count on any selection help from newsstand boating magazines. You mayencounter a product "roundup" in a commercial publication, but don't expect tofind any "let-the-chips-fall" test results. Rare is the boating magazine thatwill risk alienating potential advertisers by publishing negative results.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

So how do you make a selection? Your best source will often be local knowledge.If you ask other boatowners in your area what bottom paint they use, one brandname is likely to come up more often than others. If you see an old boat with atopside finish you admire, find out what the finish is and if it was owner-applied. If you hear praise for several different varnishes, get each advocateto show you his brightwork and ask the hard questions: How long has it been on?Always exposed? How many coats? How long between coats? You will know quicklyenough precisely which product to choose and what to expect from it.

PRODUCT GUIDE

Marine paints and other boat refinishing products are constantly changing. Newtechnologies provide continuing opportunities for tougher, smoother coatings.Environmental pressures lead to the elimination of specific ingredients orentire products. Products from other arenas find their way into marine use. (Anexample of the latter is the widespread use in Europe of a diaper-rash creamcontaining zinc oxide in place of antifouling paint.) In spite of this flux,most of the refinishing products on chandlery shelves have been around foryears, some for decades. You are likely to find yourself choosing products thathave a long history of marine use. Having a basic understanding of each of theseproducts by class will help you select the specific product best suited to yourindividual needs.

ALKYD ENAMEL (exterior-grade house paint)

* Cost range: $10 to $30 per gallon

* Coverage: 200 square feet per gallon (two coats)

* Primer: Alkyd primer recommended

* Method of application: Brush

USE: Excellent for interior hull spaces—inside cabinets andlockers. May also be applied to bulkheads but can show brush strokes. Good-quality exterior trim house paint can also be used as an inexpensive andsurprisingly durable deck paint; not recommended for the hull.

* Finish life: 1 to 5 years

* Dangers and precautions: Flammable.

* Solvent: Mineral spirits

* Recoat time: 8 hours

* Sanding between coats: Unnecessary

* Drying time: 24 hours

TOPSIDE ENAMEL (marine alkyd enamel)

* Cost range: $12 to $20 per quart.

* Coverage: 50 to 60 square feet per quart (two coats).

* Primer required: Alkyd or epoxy undercoat required.

* Method of application: Brush, roller, or spray.

USE: The least expensive hull and deck coating. Can be applied to almostany above-the-waterline surface. Compatible with most old coatings. Betterhiding characteristics than polyurethane, but lower gloss and much shorter life.Good choice for interior surfaces.

* Finish life: 2 to 3 years in exterior applications.

* Dangers and precautions: Flammable.

* Recommended solvent: Proprietary or mineral spirits.

* Recoat time: 24 hours.

* Sanding between coats: Recommended.

* Drying time: 24 hours.

BOOTTOP ENAMEL

* Cost range: $5 for 8 oz.

* Coverage: 100 linear feet (2-inch-wide stripe, two coats).

* Primer required: per manufacturer.

* Method of application: Brush or roller.

USE: Boottop and cove stripe. Commonly available in small cans. Anyalkyd-based topside enamel will serve this function. Urethane paints may also beused for this purpose. For imitation gold leaf, use a bronze pigmented paint,such as Kemp's Permagild.

* Finish life: 2 to 3 years.

* Dangers and precautions: Flammable.

* Recommended solvent: proprietary or mineral spirits

* Recoat time: 24 hours.

* Sanding between coats: Recommended.

* Drying time: Overnight.

SINGLE-PART POLYURETHANE (urethane-modified alkyd)

* Cost range: $15 to $20 per quart.

* Coverage: 50 to 60 square feet per quart (two coats).

* Primer required: Proprietary.

* Method of application: Brush, roller, or spray.

USE: Hull and deck finish. High gloss and good durability. Easier toapply than two-part paints. Fewer compatibility problems with old paint.

* Finish life: 3 to 5 years, with some loss of gloss.

* Dangers and precautions: Flammable. Air-supplied respirator required for sprayapplication.

* Recommended solvent: Proprietary or mineral spirits.

* Recoat time: Overnight.

* Sanding between coats: Recommended.

* Drying time: 24 hours.

TWO-PART POLYURETHANE (linear polyurethane)

* Cost range: $35 to $95 per quart.

* Coverage: 50 to 60 square feet per quart.

* Primer required: Proprietary.

* Method of application: Foam roller, tipped with brush. Amateur spraying isstrongly discouraged.

USE: The best hull and deck finish. Outstanding gloss and durability.Several brands formulated for amateur application. Not difficult to apply well,but intolerant of omissions and shortcuts. Done well, delivers a better-than-newfinish.

* Finish life: 5 to 7 years.

* Dangers and precautions: When roller- or brush-applied, hazards are similar toother paints—primarily those associated with exposure to solvent—butwhen atomized by spray equipment, linear polyurethane is highly toxic. Containsisocyanate: leaking methyl-isocyanate gas killed 3,300 people in Bhopal, India,in a 1984 industrial accident. Spraying requires a positive-pressure air-supplied respirator.

* Recommended solvent: Proprietary.

* Recoat time: 24 to 48 hours.

* Sanding between coats: Recommended.

* Drying time: 48 to 168 hours.

LEMON OIL

* Cost range: $8 per pint.

* Coverage: Depends on the wood.

Method of application: Rub into the grain with a cloth.

USE: Unvarnished interior wood. Replaces natural oils and is poison tomildew.

* Finish life: Perpetual.

* Recommended solvent: None.

* Recoat time: Every 30 to 60 days.

* Sanding between coats: No.

* Drying time: Immediate.

LINSEED OIL

* Cost range: $10 to $15 per quart.

* Coverage: 150 to 200 square feet per quart (single application).

* Method of application: Brush and/or cloth. Initial application usually callsfor multiple coats.

USE: Unvarnished exterior teak. Linseed is the primary oil in most teak-oil products. An excellent preservative but tends to darken the wood.

* Finish life: Depends on location. To maintain the desired color in southernwaters and the tropics, sun-carbonized oil will have to be scrubbed from thewood every 6 to 12 months.

* Recommended solvent: None.

* Recoat time: Every 30 to 60 days.

* Sanding between coats: No.

* Drying time: Overnight.

TUNG OIL

* Cost range: $12 to $17 per quart.

* Coverage: 150 to 200 square feet per quart (single application).

* Method of application: Brush and/or cloth. Initial application usually callsfor multiple coats.

USE: Unvarnished exterior teak. Tung oil is the base for some teak-oilproducts. More water-resistant than linseed oil and does not turn the wood dark.More expensive than linseed: if a teak product contains tung oil, it will beprominently mentioned on the label.

* Finish life: Depends on location. To maintain the desired color in southernwaters and the tropics, sun-carbonized oil will have to be scrubbed from thewood every 6 to 12 months.

* Recommended solvent: None.

* Recoat time: Every 30 to 60 days.

* Sanding between coats: No.

* Drying time: Overnight

TEAK SEALER

* Cost range: $10 to $20 per quart.

* Coverage: 150 to 200 square feet per quart (single application).

* Method of application: Brush. Initial application usually calls for multiplecoats.

USE: Unvarnished exterior teak. Sealers are typically a mixture of oilsand resins or polymers—kind of a cross between teak oil and varnish.

* Finish life: The oil in teak sealers still carbonizes despite the shielding ofthe resin or polymer. Periodic stripping—as often as every 12months—will be required in southern waters to maintain a light color. Someformulations are pigmented to counteract darkening.

* Recommended solvent: None.

* Recoat time: Every 60 to 90 days.

* Sanding between coats: No.

* Drying time: 1–2 days.

SPAR VARNISH

* Cost range: $10 to $30 per quart.

* Coverage: 90 to 125 square feet per quart (one coat).

* Primer required: Thinned varnish.

* Method of application: Brush. Minimum of five initial coats required, with thefirst two thinned as much as 50%.

USE: Clear finish for exterior and interior wood. Resin-based sparvarnish is the least complicated wood finish and very long-lasting when properlymaintained. Less abrasion-resistant than polyurethane but more flexible. Addssome color to the wood.

* Finish life: 3 to 5 years. To achieve this longevity, nicks and scratches mustbe sealed immediately and a fresh topcoat of varnish must be applied every 3 to6 months. Covered varnish will last indefinitely.

* Dangers and precautions: Flammable.

* Recommended solvent: Proprietary or mineral spirits.

* Recoat time: Overnight.

* Sanding between coats: Required. It is possible to apply multiple coatswithout sanding by recoating as soon as the previous coat "skins."

* Drying time: Overnight.

POLYURETHANE VARNISH

* Cost range: $10 to $30 per quart.

* Coverage: 90 to 125 square feet per quart (one coat).

* Primer required: No.

* Method of application: Brush. Multiple initial coats required.

USE: Excellent finish for interior wood. Generally less satisfactory forexterior applications. Harder than spar varnish, but tends to lose adhesion whenexposed to the sun, peeling off in plastic-wrap-like sheets. Excellent abrasionresistance for cabin sole applications. Water-clear finish adds no color.Polyurethane varnish should not be confused with clear two-part polyurethane,which is sometimes applied over epoxy-saturated wood to good effect.

* Finish life: 10 years on interior applications.

* Dangers and precautions: Flammable.

* Recommended solvent: Proprietary or mineral spirits.

* Recoat time: Overnight.

* Sanding between coats: Required. It is possible to apply multiple coatswithout sanding by recoating as soon as the previous coat "skins."

EPOXY

* Cost range: $75 to $95 per gallon.

* Coverage: 400 to 500 square feet per gallon.

* Method of application: Brush, roller, or squeegee.

USE: Primer/filler for porous and/or crazed gelcoat. Wood sealer underan overcoat of two-part polyurethane. Sheathing with lightweight fiberglasscloth for hard-wear surfaces. Barrier coat below the waterline for blisterprevention. Extremely sun-sensitive; requires an overcoat with UV protection.Very difficult to remove if system fails.

* Finish life: Unlimited if protected from UV damage.

* Dangers and precautions: Highly toxic. Contact can lead to allergic reactionand lifetime sensitivity. Adequate ventilation and protective clothing(especially rubber gloves) required. Organic respirator recommended.

* Recommended solvent: Acetone, cider vinegar (for cleanup only).

* Recoat time: Overnight.

* Sanding between coats: Required.

* Drying time: Overnight.

EPOXY BOTTOM PAINT (non-ablative)

* Cost range: $75 to $120 per gallon.

* Coverage: 150 to 200 square feet per gallon (two coats).

* Primer required: None.

* Method of application: Roller or brush.

USE: Best choice for most boats left in the water year-round. Long-lasting hard coating that may be scrubbed to extend time between haulouts. Fewcompatibility problems with old coatings.

(Continues...)

Excerpted from SAILBOAT REFINISHING by DON CASEY. Copyright © 2013 by Don Casey. Excerpted by permission of The McGraw-Hill Companies, Inc..
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.

Edition details

• Publisher: International Marine/Ragged Mountain Press
• Publication date: 2007
• Language: English
• ISBN 10: 0071486585
• ISBN 13: 9780071486583
• Binding: Paperback
• Edition number: 1
• Number of pages: 144