Waves of the Sea, and Other Water Waves (Classic Reprint) - Hardcover

Vaughan Cornish

9780365016670: Waves of the Sea, and Other Water Waves (Classic Reprint)

Hardcover

ISBN 10: 0365016675 ISBN 13: 9780365016670

Publisher: Forgotten Books, 2020

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Excerpt from Waves of the Sea, and Other Water Waves

These things, and others of a like nature, I have watched for many years, and I have set down in this book what I have been able to add to former knowledge.

I have written to inform the mind, not to stir the imagination. The appearances are familiar and recurrent, and I do not attempt to recall them by much word-painting, but the precise observation and measurement of waves, and the discovery of the mode of their production, are matters of difficulty, and to these I have given myself.

My investigations on water waves have been prosecuted during the last fifteen years. They have been made in many parts of the world, which I have visited principally for the study of surface waves of different kinds. The chief results as far as they. Relate to water waves are contained in this volume, which contains also a critical examination of observations made by a number of seamen and others upon the size and speed of ocean waves.

Most of Part III., relating. To tidal bores and other waves in rivers, was published in the Geographical Journal and in Engineering in 1906, but Parts I. And II., which relate to waves of the sea, are new, and were written in I 909-1 0.

Side by side with the observations of water waves, I have during the same period since I 89 5) been investigating the progressive transverse ridges which are produced in sand and snow by the action of water or wind, and I have made observations upon earthquakes and other wave phenomena which come within the province of physical geography. These I intend to publish later.

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