Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters - Softcover

Holthuijsen, Leo H.

Softcover

ISBN 10: 0521129958 ISBN 13: 9780521129954

Publisher: Cambridge University Press, 2010

Synopsis

Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.

About this title

Book Description:

This richly illustrated book describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, shelf seas and coastal regions. It progresses from basic physical and statistical concepts, to the prediction of waves. It will be of interest to graduate students, researchers and engineers.

About the Author:

Leo H. Holthuijsen teaches at the Delft University of Technology and UNESCO-IHE (Institute for Water Education) in the Netherlands.

About this edition

• Publisher: Cambridge University Press
• Publication date: 2010
• ISBN 10: 0521129958
• ISBN 13: 9780521129954
• Binding: Paperback
• Edition number: 1
• Number of pages: 404