Scott Conant's New Italian Cooking - Hardcover

Conant, Scott; Smart, Joanne McAllister

Hardcover

ISBN 10: 0767916824 ISBN 13: 9780767916820

Publisher: Clarkson Potter, 2005

Synopsis

The award-winning chef of two of New York’s most celebrated restaurants presents his fresh, vibrant approach to Italian cooking with recipes that reveal the secrets behind his most acclaimed dishes.

Scott Conant, chef-owner of L’Impero and Alto restaurants in Manhattan, has been thrilling diners and impressing critics since L’Impero opened in 2003. Now he translates his inspired combination of the best of New American cooking with the best of Italian cuisine into more than 130 sophisticated but easy-to-follow recipes. Here are the dishes that have garnered national attention and unanimous praise, including melt-in-your-mouth beef short ribs, the creamiest polenta, intoxicatingly fragrant roast chicken, and a deceptively simple Spaghetti with Fresh Tomato Sauce that transforms an everyday meal into something sublime.

Because Scott understands that home cooks don’t often have as much time to spend in the kitchen as they’d like, his New Italian Cooking includes many dishes that suit hectic weekday schedules—meaning they can easily be made in 45 minutes or less—such as Seared and Slow-Roasted Sirloin of Beef or Grilled Shrimp with Mint, Orange, and Fennel Couscous. When he slows things down for the weekend, it’s with luxurious braises and roasts that require more time but not necessarily more effort, including Oven-Braised Lamb Shanks with Red Wine Vinegar and a sumptuous, long-simmering Bolognese Sauce.

Featuring 30 captivating color photos, new insights on Italian ingredients, and friendly yet meticulous instructions, Scott Conant’s New Italian Cooking is a book to turn to again and again for the best of contemporary Italian cuisine.

About this title

About the Author

Scott Conant is the chef-owner of L’Impero, which was honored with a James Beard award for best new restaurant in the country in 2003. In the spring of 2005, Scott opened Alto, which focuses on the cuisine of northern Italy. Named one of the ten best new chefs in the country in 2004 by Food & Wine, Scott cultivated his cooking style in some of Manhattan’s finest Italian kitchens, including San Domenico, Il Toscanaccio, and Chianti.

Joanne McAllister Smart is the co-author with Gordon Hamersley of Bistro Cooking at Home and editor of Fine Cooking’s Cooking New American, both IACP award winners. A regular contributor to Fine Cooking magazine, she lives in Connecticut with her husband and two children.

Reviews

Conant, chef/owner of New York's L'Impero—which won a James Beard award for the country's best new restaurant in 2003—brings together the best of Old World cooking and modern twists in this sumptuous cookbook. Italian food; the use of fresh, seasonal ingredients; simple foundations giving way to complex flavors—Conant takes all these trends and whips them up into a fabulous mix of recipes, offering a perfect blend of easier weeknight dishes as well as weekend extravaganzas. His food has "an Italian soul": some traditional elements remain, but inventive surprises add excitement. To wit, Conant's Spaghetti Puttanesca (Scotty's Style) uses both plum and cherry tomatoes, and tones down the amount of capers, black olives, anchovy and garlic so that the flavors continue to build as one eats. "Boneless" Osso Bucco turns the classic "bone with a hole" dish into a deeply flavorful revelation thanks to a reversal of order in two of the steps. Conant includes dishes adapted from his restaurant, which may find readers happily spending an entire weekend afternoon in the kitchen, making stews and fresh pasta, as well as quick-cooking fish, chicken and meat dishes. He smartly alerts readers up front as to which recipes fall into which camp and includes plenty of fascinating asides on, for example, seasoning with salt or transforming pantry staples like olive oil and canned beans into the elements of delicious pasta dishes. Wine recommendations accompany each recipe in this invigorating collection. Photos.
Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.

Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.

Small Tastes



Many recipes in this book--soups, salads, risottos, and pastas--can all work very well as first courses. The recipes in this chapter are really more about the little bites offered at the very start of a dinner or gathering, often before anyone even sits down at the table. In Italy, these are called assagini.

Think of these recipes as opportunities for you to try out new ingredients and flavor combinations that you might shy away from were the dish to be the bulk of the meal. With these small bites you are neither gustatorily nor financially overcommitted. For instance, raw yellowtail with ginger oil and marinated onions (page 29) is a starter my customers clamor for. But you know your crowd better than I do and maybe they are not so sure about raw fish; by serving it as a small bite you relieve yourself and them from any pressure. If it's not to their liking, they know there is more food to come, while you have not broken the bank on what the same amount of fish as a main course would have cost. Admittedly, some of these dishes are on the fancier side. So my suggestion is this: If you are planning on making one of the more elaborate dishes here, keep the pasta course (if you're having one) and the main course simple. A braise, for instance, would be an ideal main course, since you can make it ahead of time and then reheat it on the night you want to serve it. Finally, a few of the recipes contained here, such as the rabbit salad (page 53) and the scallop and farro ragu (page 42), can also make a delicious light lunch.


RAW BLUEFIN TUNA WITH BABY TOMATO SALAD AND MINT


Baby greens or the even smaller microgreens are simply greens that have been picked while still very tiny. They are tender, tasty, and sized right for these small appetizer plates. You'll find them at some supermarkets and specialty stores. Other options include pea shoots, mizuna, and watercress. You could also trim larger leafy greens to size. This starter comes together in minutes if you already have some Peperoncino Oil made; you can also try substituting a good purchased chile oil in place of my homemade infused oil.


MAKES 6 SERVINGS
4 ounces sashimi-quality tuna, preferably bluefin
10 baby tomatoes (pear or cherry,
for example), cut into eighths
1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon red wine vinegar
1 to 2 leaves fresh mint,
finely chopped
1/4 teaspoon snipped fresh chives
A couple pinches of sea salt
A handful of baby or microgreens
1 teaspoon homemade
Peperoncino Oil (page 19)


With a very sharp knife, slice the tuna into six equal slices. In a small bowl, gently toss the tomatoes with the oil, vinegar, mint, chives, and a pinch of sea salt. Divide the tomato salad among six plates. Top each with a slice of tuna. Sprinkle just a smidge of sea salt on each slice of tuna. Top with the baby greens and a drizzle of the Peperoncino Oil. Serve immediately.


WHICH WINE?


This is wonderful with a bubbly glass of rosé; try a spumante from Franciacorta (DOCG) in Lombardy, a region made famous by the outstanding quality of its sparkling wines.


SCALLOP CARPACCIO WITH SCALLIONS AND LEMON


When you eat this dish you may ask yourself: "Why would I ever eat a cooked scallop again?" This recipe is the simplest thing in the world--the bottarga is optional--but within simplicity lies restraint. Make sure the scallops you buy are "dry," have not been treated with chemicals, and are exceedingly fresh.


MAKES 6 SERVINGS

4 large sea scallops,
preferably diver scallops
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 to 2 scallions, sliced very,
very thin on the bias
1 cup micro or baby greens
Sea salt
Bottarga (see page 6), shaved very thin (optional)


SLICE THE SCALLOPS CROSSWISE into very thin rounds, each 1/8 inch thick. Lay the slices in a single layer on a large plate and drizzle with the lemon juice and olive oil. Sprinkle about a teaspoon of the scallions over the scallops, wrap them in plastic wrap, and refrigerate until very cold, at least an hour and up to 4 hours ahead of serving.

When ready to serve, divide the baby greens among six plates and top with the slices of scallops. Sprinkle just a tiny bit of sea salt over each. Finish with the tiniest bit of shaved bottarga. (A bit of bottarga, with its strong fish flavor, can make this dish sing, but too much is unpleasant. You can also leave it off completely.) Drizzle the plate with any remaining olive oil and lemon juice from the scallops and serve immediately.


WHICH WINE?


These sweet scallops would enjoy being paired with a full-bodied Pigato from Liguria, a white wine with enough flavor to stand up to the bottarga.


Raw Fish, Italian Style

During a visit to Italy in 2003, I was surprised to see how popular raw fish is there. But I really shouldn't have been, as crudo, as it's called in Italy, is gaining popularity there. I took such a liking to the way raw fish was handled by young Italian chefs that I started to serve similar dishes in the restaurant. I had no idea that it would be a potential quandary. Customers wanted to know why I was serving sashimi. Well, call it what you want, but in my mind each of these raw fish appetizers has an Italian soul, relying for the most part on classic Italian herbs, robustly flavored oils, and sea salt to complement the subtle flavor of the raw fish.

Maybe this is obvious, but because you are serving the fish raw, it has to be pristine--as fresh and as high a quality as there is. That, in fact, is the only challenging aspect to these recipes. Seek out a trusted fishmonger, and be sure to buy what would be considered sushi or sashimi-quality fish. (Be aware that there are some people, including children, pregnant women, the elderly, and people with impaired immune systems, who should not eat any raw fish.)

Once the warnings have been heeded and you have in your possession some beautiful fish, these are actually fun dishes to make. I give amounts for these recipes, but once you make them, you will no longer need to measure. Just bear in mind that the fish is the main attraction and that the other items are there to accent it--so use them sparingly.

The raw fish starters each make six "two-bite" servings; if you want more, serve fewer people or multiply the recipe. It would be easy (if expensive) to make a lot of these small bites for a party, especially if you get all of the ingredients lined up assembly-line style. Consider them when you're doing some serious entertaining.


FLUKE WITH CITRUS SALAD AND PEPERONCINO OIL


Tiny, triangular pieces of orange, lemon, and lime shimmer on the plate like little jewels. Very sexy looking food! If you can't find fluke, also called summer flounder, try yellowfin tuna.


MAKES 6 SERVINGS

4 ounces sashimi-quality fluke
1 lemon
1 lime
1 small orange
1/4 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon Peperoncino Oil
(page 19)
A couple pinches of sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper


WITH A VERY SHARP KNIFE, slice the fluke into twelve very thin slices. Segment the lemon, lime, and orange in the following way: Cut both ends off of the fruit. Using a sharp, flexible knife and a sawing motion, cut the skin and white membrane away from top to bottom following the contours. Free two segments from each fruit by cutting along the seams that separate one segment from the other. Squeeze some of the remaining lemon to get some fresh juice. Cut the segments into small pieces and toss them with the lemon juice and extra virgin olive oil.

Put one slice each of the fluke on 6 small plates. Top with half of the citrus segments. Dot each piece with a little Peperoncino Oil and season very lightly with the sea salt and pepper. Top with another layer of fish, citrus, Peperoncino Oil, sea salt, and black pepper. Serve immediately.


WHICH WINE?


Try a Verdicchio di Matelica (DOC), which is dry, soft, and harmonious, with a brilliant pale yellow color that makes it a wonderful pour with delicately flavored raw fish starters.


YELLOWTAIL WITH OLIO DI ZENZERO AND MARINATED ONIONS

This is my favorite raw fish. Even though they are used sparingly, the marinated red onions add an amazing depth and roundness; their texture is also a welcome surprise. While ginger isn't exactly thought of as an Italian ingredient (even though I do write it in Italian here and on my menu), its personality becomes somewhat subdued when infused in olive oil. It is not the main flavor, but rather it adds an intriguing background to the dish. Yes, this dish calls for not one but two infused oils as well as marinated onions. But you will have made these ahead of time so that when it comes to assembly, you're done in just a few minutes. People just go crazy over the flavors of this dish. In fact, you may want to double the recipe because everyone is going to want more!


MAKES 6 SERVINGS

4 ounces sashimi-quality yellowtail
1 teaspoon Peperoncino Oil
(page 19)
1 teaspoon Olio di Zenzero
(page 19)
Pinch of sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon finely chopped Marinated Red Onions (page 18)


WITH A VERY SHARP KNIFE, slice the fish into six pieces and place each on a small plate. Top each with a "dot" of the Peperoncino Oil and about three "dots" of the Olio di Zenzero. Sprinkle with just a touch of sea salt and black pepper. Sprinkle some of the chopped red onions over the fish and serve immediately.


WHICH WINE?


With this, my favorite raw fish dish, I like a glass of Soave Classico (DOC) Superiore; its elegant aroma, full of peaches and piecrust, works magic with the bright gingery flavor of this dish.


CITRUS-CURED SALMON

A side of cured salmon is a beautiful sight on a table full of hors d'oeuvres. You can serve it as is with little toasts and some honey mustard or creme fraiche and let people slice it themselves. If you're feeling more formal, dice the silken salmon and gently mix it with fresh snipped chives and a little olive oil, or use it as part of a colorful little salad topped with horseradish cream (recipe follows). This is really simple to make, but it requires the best-quality salmon you can get and needs to cure for three days before it's ready to be served.


MAKES 15 TO 20 SERVINGS

1 whole side of fresh salmon, filleted and skin on
1 1/4 cups kosher salt
1 cup dark brown sugar
1 tablespoon yellow mustard seeds
1 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
1 bunch fresh dill
1 bunch fresh parsley
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
1 lemon, thinly sliced
1 lime, thinly sliced
1 orange, thinly sliced
1/4 cup olive oil (not extra virgin)
1/4 cup white wine

REMOVE ANY PINBONES FROM THE SALMON. Trim the stomach flaps if necessary for a neater presentation. On a sided platter or sheet pan large enough to hold the fish, gently rub the salt onto both sides of the salmon. Lay the salmon skin side down and cover with plastic wrap. Place another sheet pan, platter, or a cutting board on top of the length of the fish and weight it lightly. Refrigerate the salmon for 12 to 24 hours.

Remove the weights, unwrap the salmon, and gently wipe off the excess salt and moisture. (Do not rinse it!) Lay the salmon skin side down on the platter. Sprinkle the sugar, mustard seeds, and black pepper over the length of the fish. Next cover the fish with the dill, parsley, onion, lemon, lime, and orange, distributing and layering the ingredients as evenly as you can along the length of the fish. Drizzle the olive oil and white wine over everything. Cover the salmon with plastic wrap, weight it again, and refrigerate for 24 hours.

Unwrap the salmon and spoon any accumulated juices onto it.

Carefully turn the salmon over (don't worry about rearranging the marinade ingredients, just let them fall onto the platter and rest the fish on top of everything). Once again cover the fish with plastic wrap, weight it, and refrigerate for 24 to 36 hours. Unwrap the fish, gently scrape any remaining marinade mixture off the salmon, and pat it dry. The salmon will keep in the refrigerator for a week.


TO SLICE THE SALMON
Use a long, thin, very sharp knife and begin at the tapered, tail end. Cut thin slices across the grain at an angle almost parallel to the work surface.

TO DICE THE SALMON
Remove larger "blocks" of flesh and dice.

WHICH WINE?
A dry (secco) Moscato, especially one from Alto Adige, would taste terrific with the cured salmon.

Edition details

• Publisher: Clarkson Potter
• Publication date: 2005
• Language: English
• ISBN 10: 0767916824
• ISBN 13: 9780767916820
• Binding: Hardcover
• Edition number: 1
• Number of pages: 304