The Alpine 4000m Peaks by the Classic Routes

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9780897321112: The Alpine 4000m Peaks by the Classic Routes

Kari Blodig, who started the 4000 meter peak quest with his book is 1829, had identified 81 summits. However there were inconsistencies in the Blodig list. In 1994, a UIAA committee arbitrated on the obvious anomalies (some great multi-peak massifs had only their highest points noted, while other groups had every significant summit accredited). By using adjoining col depth as a guideline, the UIAA process settled on a new tally of 88 peaks. These not only took in the obvious heights of big peaks like Liskamm, Breithorn, Grand Combin, and Grandes Jonasses, but also drew attention to a number of proud individual rock gendarmes on the ridges of the higher peaks. In this second edition of his guide, Richard Goedeke has incorporated all the UIAA promoted peaks. In addition, he has noted seven extra summits that merit accreditation based on the new guidelines, and discusses the status of those listed that barely meet the criteria but are noted for other reasons. As some of the new peaks are easily reached in the process of other expeditions, their inclusion is largely academic. Other newly acclaimed summits bring an extra dimension to the 4000m list. The Grand Gendarme of the Weisshom, the Aiguilles du Diables on Mont Blanc du Tacul and the western summits of the Grandes Jorasses introduce new expeditions of considerable challenge to the 4000m odyssey.

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From the Back Cover:

The Alpine 4000-metre peaks, though lower than the mountains of the Himalaya or the Andes, tower higher above the snow line than many of the peaks in those ranges. It is this characteristic that has made the Alps one of the finest climbing regions in the world. To ascend its mountains by even their easiest routes involves expeditions of considerable challenge. Yet few of these routes require any great technical skill other than basic glacier, and snow and ice technique, a little rock climbing ability, and good mountain judgement. They range from the Bishorn which is little more than a straightforward snow plod up an easy glacier, to the dangerous and inaccessible Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey, splendidly situated amidst the savage grandeur of the steep, chaotic southern flank of Mont Blanc. The guide gives a full description of each climb with advice on maps and huts. A simple layout map is provided for each ascent together with useful photographs. Sixty-one mountains are described and completing all of these would represent an odyssey of climbing and adventure that will surely inspire novice and expert alike. (4 1/2 x 7 1/2, 240 pages, color photos, b&w photos)

About the Author:

Richard Goedeke is a climber and guide with more than 40 years of experience. During his long mountaineering career, he has achieved more than 100 first ascents in the Alps, Norway, and his most beloved Dolomites. He is the author of many books about mountaineering.

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Richard Goedeke
Published by Menasha Ridge Press (1991)
ISBN 10: 0897321111 ISBN 13: 9780897321112
New Paperback First Edition Quantity Available: 1
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Book Description Menasha Ridge Press, 1991. Paperback. Book Condition: New. book. Bookseller Inventory # M0897321111

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