An argument for the value of modern fashion as sexual express., with the tailored suit as its strongest example. Dress was equally showy for men & women until the late 18th century, when natural simplicity & understatement became fashionable, but for men's clothes only. After that, obvious sexual display in dress was left to women. Hollander shows how modern women adapted men's tailoring to their richer scheme of display, making suits do for women what they had long done for men: show their sexuality to be central, serious & interesting, rather than irrational, shallow & dangerous. Also shows how men are recapturing the color & ornament they found taboo, without giving up the potent beauty of tailored suits, which women have made universal. Illustrations.
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Art historian Hollander tries to set the record straight about the ``tyranny'' of fashion and to clear its bad name, making a reasonably strong case but offering a surprisingly lifeless account in the process. Hollander (Moving Pictures, 1989, etc.) spends most of the book establishing modern masculine sartorial superiority, setting up the contrast between the men's suit, with its brilliant design- -serious, sexy, timeless--and what, until this century, was mere ephemeral female fashion frippery. From the 1600s until the early 1900s, women's dress became increasingly theatrical and decorative, and received more attention from society (i.e., men), while men's dress set the classical standard. Obscuring female form and motion with tiny waists and voluminous skirts, women's clothing earned fashion the reputation of being manipulative and deceptive. Hollander asserts, to the contrary, that fashion is an ``imaginative art.'' Only in the early 20th century, however, did women's fashion become realistic and dignified. The introduction of short skirts after WW I gave coherence to the female form (and made exposing legs, and thus the wearing of pants, possible). It is just recently, Hollander argues, that female dress has begun to set any significant standards for Western fashion: ``Women finally took over the total male scheme of dress, modified it to suit themselves, and have handed it back to men charged with immense new possiblities.'' Sex and Suits has several major weaknesses, however. Most frustrating, given the book's historical scope (from the Greeks to the Gap), is the profusion of generalizations (``In general, people have always worn what they wanted to wear; fashion exists to keep fulfilling that desire'') and occasional preposterous pronouncements resulting from her attempt to divorce shifts in fashion from social forces. Also, her take on the relationship between gender and contemporary fashion is dated. Still, despite its un-hip feel, a coherent defense of fashion's integrity. (45 b&w photos, not seen) -- Copyright ©1994, Kirkus Associates, LP. All rights reserved.From Library Journal:
In Seeing Through Clothes (LJ 10/1/78) and Moving Pictures (LJ 6/15/89), Hollander postulated that pictorial representations molded the aesthetic standards as to what "looks right" in Western culture. Here, she continues her sometimes controversial, but never boring, analyses focusing on the dynamics of male/female clothing-specifically, the way in which females have borrowed "male" elements since around 1400, a time when distinctive differences in mode first appeared between the sexes. She subscribes to the prevailing ideology that everything is sexually linked and that fashion is a means of personal expression-although such meaning appears more clearly in retrospect. This is shown in numerous paintings and photographs, but no contemporary written documentation is provided. A good history of the development of men's suits, this book is highly recommended for all costume history collections.
Therese Duzinkiewicz Baker, Western Kentucky Univ. Libs., Bowling Green
Copyright 1994 Reed Business Information, Inc.
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Book Description Kodansha Globe, 1995. Paperback. Book Condition: New. book. Bookseller Inventory # M1568361017
Book Description Kodansha Globe, 1995. Paperback. Book Condition: New. Never used!. Bookseller Inventory # P111568361017
Book Description Kodansha Globe. PAPERBACK. Book Condition: New. 1568361017 New Condition. Bookseller Inventory # NEW7.0664231