Alice Waters and Chez Panisse: The Romantic, Impractical, Often Eccentric, Ultimately Brilliant Making of a Food Revolution

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9781594201158: Alice Waters and Chez Panisse: The Romantic, Impractical, Often Eccentric, Ultimately Brilliant Making of a Food Revolution
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An authorized portrait of the owner of the groundbreaking California organic food restaurant that helped launch modern ideas about organic food, sustainable farming, and American cuisine offers insight into her complex character and her achievements as a chef and activist.

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You can't tell the story of Chez Panisse, Berkeley's famed restaurant, without relating that of its diminutive founder, proprietor, and sometime chef, Alice Waters. This is what Thomas McNamee does most handily in his Alice Waters and Chez Panisse, a chronicle that begins with the seat-of-the-pants opening night of the "counterculture" venture in 1971, and ends 35 years later with Waters's restaurant an American institution--one credited with birthing California Cuisine, a style devoted to simplicity, freshness and seasonality. The book also limns, with tasty gossip, the ever-evolving Chez Panisse family, including the cook-artisans uniquely responsible for dish creation; follows the attempts, mostly failed, to put the restaurant on sound financial footing; shows how dishes and menus get made; and of course pursues Waters as she broadens her commitment to "virtuous agriculture" by establishing ventures like The Edible Schoolyard and The Yale Sustainable Food Project.

The success of Chez Panisse--Gourmet magazine named it the best American restaurant in 2002--has everything to do with Waters, yet she remains an elusive protagonist. Sophisticated yet naive, professional and amateur, hard-driving but emotionally blurry, she invites reader interest but doesn't always satisfy it, as least as presented here. If McNamee cannot quite bring her to life, and if his tale lacks an insider's full conversance with his subject, he still engages readers in the considerable drama of people finding their way--blunderingly, with talented intent--to something new. With menus, narrated recipes, and photographs throughout, the book is vital reading for anyone interested in food, period. --Arthur Boehm

About the Author:

Thomas McNamee was born in Memphis, Tennessee, in 1947, and grew up there and in New York City. He graduated from Yale University in 1969. He is the author of The Grizzly Bear, Nature First, A Story of Deep Delights, and The Return of the Wolf to Yellowstone. He wrote the documentary film Alexander Calder, which was broadcast on the PBS American Masters series in 1998 and received both a George W. Peabody Award and an Emmy. His essays, poems, journalism, criticism, and natural history writing have been widely published, and he is a frequent contributor to The New York Times Book Review.

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9780143113089: Alice Waters and Chez Panisse: The Romantic, Impractical, Often Eccentric, Ultimately Brilliant Making of a Food Revolution

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Publisher: Penguin Books, 2008
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