Award-winning travel writer Christopher P. Baker shows travelers the way to the best of Costa Rica—whether it's surfing the beaches of Golfo Dulce, hiking in Corcovado National Park, or dining in the upscale Escazu barrio in San Jose. Along with his in-depth coverage, Baker includes unique trip ideas, including The 21-Day Best of Costa Rica, The Offbeat Experience, and Seven Days for Active Vacationers. Complete with details on the best beaches for surfing and a variety of opportunities to get outdoors, Moon Costa Rica gives travelers the tools they need to create a more personal and memorable experience.
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Christopher P. Baker was born and raised in Yorkshire, England. He received a B.A. in geography from University College, London, and masters degrees in Latin American studies from Liverpool University and in education from the Institute of Education, London University. He began his writing career in 1978 as contributing editor on Latin America for "Land & Liberty, " a London-based political journal. In 1980 he received a Scripps-Howard Foundation Scholarship in Journalism to attend the University of California, Berkeley. Since 1983, Christopher has made his living as a professional travel writer, photographer, speaker, and international tour guide. He is acclaimed for his specialist knowledge of Cuba and Costa Rica, about which he has written 10 books, and created the "Costa Rica Pura Vida!" travel app. His many books include "Moon Cuba" and "Mi Moto Fidel: Motorcycling Through Castro's Cuba, " winner of both the 2002 Lowell Thomas Award for Best Travel Book and the North American Travel Journalist Association's Grand Prize. He has contributed to more than 150 publications worldwide, including "Caribbean Travel & Life, Maxim, National Geographic Traveler, The Robb Report, " and the "Los Angeles Times." Christopher has been profiled in "USA Today;" appears frequently on radio and television talk shows and as a guest-lecturer aboard cruise ships; and has been privileged to address such organizations as the National Press Club, the World Affairs Council, and the National Geographic Society (on the televised show "Live from National Geographic"). He is a National Geographic Resident Expert and escorts cruise-tours of Costa Rica and Panama for National Geographic Expeditions and Smithsonian Journeys. His many awards include the prestigious 2008 Lowell Thomas Travel Journalist of the Year, from the Society of American Travel Writers, and Travel Journalist of the Year from the Caribbean Tourism Organization and the Jamaica Tourist Board.Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.:
Costa Rica's Best Beaches with Christopher P. Baker
1. For sheer beauty, which Costa Rica beach takes your breath away?
Costa Rican beaches are less about scintillating white sands and more about physical context. For a sheer scenic Wow!” reaction, I’d give top marks to Playa Guiones in Nosara. Wider than a football field at low tide, this favorite of surfers has tide pools and is great for horseback riding. I’m still bowled over every time I visit Manuel Antonio’s Playa Espadilla Sur, too not the main Playa Espadilla which fronts the resort area, but the long scimitar separated from the former by a rocky outcrop and river, which sweeps around the crook of a tombolo and ends at a large knoll called Punta Catedral. The views of Manuel Antonio from there are fantastic. I love arriving by Zodiak off the National Geographic Sea Lion when I escort tours. Monkeys are almost always there to greet us, along with coatis, iguanas, and sloths and boas in the trees.
2. If a traveler is craving privacy and a secluded spot to relax, what’s your recommendation?
Costa Rica is largely about nature. If you’re seeking a total escape where you can relax in a hammock with a good book and a pair of binoculars to spot birds and wildlife, there are a few options. If you’re in the mood for deluxe rusticity, try Casa de Tranquilidad it has its own rainforest wildlife reserve. On a lesser budget, the experience of literally being eye-to-eye with the monkeys in your own treehouse is unbeatable: Lapa’s Nest Costa Rica Tree House gets my vote. Two favorite chill out and relax” hotels that immerse you in nature but also offer something intangible and unique are Iguana Lodge, which is on the Osa Peninsula, and Monteverde Lodge, which edges up against the cloud forest in Monteverde.
3. What should a visitor know about beach etiquette? For example, are there clothing-optional beaches? Or is nude sunbathing not appropriate?
I’m always amazed at how often I see European women walking through beach towns, such as Quepos, in bikinis. Costa Rica isn’t Brazil! It’s much more conservative, and such dress is considered inappropriate by locals. There are no nude beaches, nor even topless beaches in Costa Rica. Gay locals and visitors used to have their own” nude beach (Playa Dulce Vida) at Manuel Antonio, but it is now the domain of the magnificent Arenas del Mar, which I recently blogged about.
4. Is beach camping permitted in Costa Rica?
Camping is not permitted on any beach. For many years, locals paid no attention to the regulation; now it’s being enforced more, but you will still find many Costa Rican families pitching their tents beneath the coconut palms (which is actually one good way to ruin your day more people are killed by falling coconuts than by venomous snakes in Costa Rica).
5. What beaches are best for snorkeling?
Costa Rica has relatively few great snorkeling spots, especially compared to its neighboring countries. There are, however, small coral reefs and fabulous fish life to be seen off Cahuita, on the Caribbean side; off Playa Manuel Antonio, in the Central Pacific Coast; and further south (and most notably) at Uvita. Riptides are a danger at many beaches, and you should always inquire about local conditions before swimming.
6. Where can visitors combine a beach day with seeing wildlife?
The ability to combine beach with wildlife is one of Costa Rica’s major fortes. On most beaches on both the Caribbean and Pacific coasts, the forests spill over the sands. The large-scale resort development that has characterized the beaches of northern Nicoya Peninsula has driven away much of the wildlife that was previously easily viewed in the dry forests backing the beach. Elsewhere, however, the world’s your oyster. My favorites all of which are served by eco-sensitive hotels include Tortuguero (good for viewing marine turtles nesting), Manuel Antonio (although it can get crowded, it offers guaranteed viewing of creatures), and the beaches of Cahuita National Park.
7. What’s a good beach for people who love to surf, but aren't seasoned surfers?
Surf’s up! Are you a beginner? Me too. If I were to choose my preferred learn-to-surf spot, I’d opt for Tamarindo: it’s the most developed beach resort for surf schools and offers a wide choice of beaches for every level. There are also women-only and kids’ classes. Plus, since it’s surf central” you get all the fun of chilling with fellow surfer dudes and checking out a crazy bar scene, if that’s your thing.
8. A day at the beach is always good, but what if someone wants to do good as well? Are there any volunteer programs you'd suggest?
Tremendous! Again, lots to choose from. For example, beach-goers can help save the planet’s endangered marine turtles at Playa Matapalo’s Portalon Ecological Wildlife Refuge, and with the Sea Turtle Conservancy at Tortuguero. Also at Tortuguero, Costa Rica Expeditions offers an innovative way for guests to donate a few hours of their time in local schools.
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