The Storms of Denali - Hardcover

O'Connell, Nicholas

Hardcover

ISBN 10: 1602231834 ISBN 13: 9781602231832

Publisher: University of Alaska Press, 2012

Synopsis

Reaching 20,320 feet into and above the clouds, the peak of Denali is the highest and coldest summit in North America. In this novel of adventure, adversity, and ambition by renowned mountaineer and writer Nicholas O’Connell, four men set out to conquer it. Among the sharply drawn team members is narrator John Walker, a family man trying to choose between domestic stability and mountaineering’s uncertain glory. In the course of their ascent the group battles avalanches, fierce winds, and mind-numbing cold before their bond begins to splinter, leading inexorably to tragedy.

Throughout the book, the author’s first-hand experience lends vivid reality to the formidable challenges of the mountain and to the bonds formed and broken in the pursuit of its summit. Beyond the physical tolls, O’Connell presents in stark relief the internal debate about the price of success—all the more urgent at the earth’s extremes.

About this title

About the Author

Nick O’Connell is the author of several books, including Beyond Risk: Conversations with Climbers and On Sacred Ground: The Spirit of Place in Pacific Northwest Literature. His writing has appeared in Newsweek, Outside, National Geographic Adventure, Condé Nast Traveler, the New York Times, the Wall Street Journal, Sierra, and many other publications. He teaches creative writing and online writing classes for www.thewritersworkshop.net.

Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.

THE CITY BENEATH THE SNOW

storiesBy MARJORIE KOWALSKI COLE

UNIVERSITY OF ALASKA PRESS

Copyright © 2012 University of Alaska Press
All right reserved.
ISBN: 978-1-60223-183-2

Contents

Highways.............................................1Holly, 1968..........................................15The Music of Desire..................................28Taking It Plain......................................43Facing the Music.....................................53Aurora Borealis......................................67A Secret Between the Two of Them.....................85Pieta................................................95Hawks Over Water.....................................103Fooling the Guesser..................................118With This Body.......................................128The Same Salt........................................144Grace................................................158Psalm for Anabel.....................................172Rara Avis............................................181Star of the Sea......................................201The City Beneath the Snow............................218Afterword............................................229

Chapter One

Highways

For his fifty-second birthday Eamon Castle gave himself an art class at the University of Alaska: figure drawing. That first night he walked past a horn quintet practicing in the Fine Arts Hall as he hunted for the art studio. The tootling of the horns made him feel ridiculous. It took a lot of bravado to start these things, and the horn music reminded him of just how much. But, he knew, the feeling would pass. You push forward.

The twelve art students, strangers to each other and to each other's talent, shuffled out of parkas and straddled benches. The instructor was leaning against a window ledge chatting lazily and looking around. Without any warning, in walked a twenty-year-old girl without a stitch on. Her bottom was firm; her back rose lean and well muscled to straight, lovely shoulders. Her skin had never seen a tanning parlor. She climbed a few steps up a ladder then turned around to face the class.

Eamon looked at the floor. He wanted to cough or pull the beard he'd recently shaved, but he noticed not a sound from the other students. The instructor, a beanpole of a guy at least Eamon's age, began to talk about the human skeleton. He gestured calmly toward the girl's hips. She had short blonde braids and intelligent blue eyes.

Eamon had a marriage of twenty-five years, a grown daughter of his own, the unsettled memory of one affair, and a framed nude by Kathe Kollewitz in his shop—his wife, Bonnie, wouldn't have it inside the house. As a highway engineer he had been in enough western towns and topless clubs to feel beyond the point of astonishment. But now his heart was beating a little fast and he was briefly without any references. What to do? I guess, he thought, eyeing the disinterested faces around him, I've been out of circulation. Twenty minutes later, having made his first sketches, he thought happily, no, it's not that. A beautiful woman ought to take you by surprise.

Eamon knew he had no real talent, but in his fifties he realized that inclination was enough—was itself a gift. His fingers longed to rise up from the boilerplate of environmental impact statements and take reverent note of the world around him. Still, walking around the room during breaks—the instructor urged them to look over each other's work—Eamon felt shy of his stiff, unpracticed lines. His charcoal inched around the page as though he were trying to connect the dots. The gap between his hand and eye announced a complete innocence of art. He rubbed his bare chin and tried to accept the rung on the ladder he'd be occupying for the next twelve weeks.

During the second class, a week later, he noticed that the woman next to him sometimes turned from the model to make a quick, emphatic sketch of one of the other students. She drew the model with great care, taking every minute allowed, so that her pictures looked as accurate and frail as tracings; but these other sketches were dashed off in bold lines. Eamon decided to try that. He looked around, then more closely at the woman next to him, and saw a large hole in the knee of her faded jeans. Her bare knee showed square and lean, just like the model's. She wore thick brown braids, too, from which much of her hair escaped. Her hands, one moving swiftly over the paper, one on her leg, were thin, strong-looking, with the skin pulled tightly over prominent tendons.

In the hall during a break, he noticed that she kept her eyes down, or directed to a far corner, as she smoked. Then she caught his gaze and smiled, in a relaxed and friendly way as if she were not so much reserved as simply thinking. She wore hiking boots and carried her cigarettes in the pocket of a long, shabby, man's sweater. She must have been in her early thirties.

The next week he said to her, as they pried out thumbtacks and slipped paper into folders, "Feels like the end of a long, long day."

"I know that feeling," she replied with a nod, but with something held back. She paused in wrapping a muffler around her neck. "What do you do?"

"I build roads," he began. He meant to disparage the activity, but he immediately realized he was doing the opposite. I'm Big Eamon Castle and I jes' build roads. "I run the highway department," he tried again. "I mean I'm an engineer."

She said she designed display ads at the local newspaper. "This," she said, waving a hand at the studio, "is the best part of the day." She picked up her folder. It was ten below tonight; blue long johns showed through the hole in her jeans. Her parka didn't look warm enough to Eamon, but her face gleamed inside a pink wool helmet. A trial or two had worn valleys below her eyes, but her eyes were a clear, vivid brown, direct and friendly. She walked down the hall with her folder under her arm and out into the night.

Eamon did not hanker for solitude himself, he got enough of that at home, and he included a stop at the local tavern into his weekly routine. He struck up a friendship with the instructor. They made a habit of it, and Eamon wondered if he could get the woman to join them sometime. As if by contrast to the smoky, cinderblock tavern where conversations floated across the room over the jukebox, she appeared in his mind quiet and intense, glowing. She had things on her mind, a destination. He liked that.

Her name was Frances, and he decided after a few weeks that hers were the most interesting drawings in the class. Other students were more proficient but locked into one style. Frances didn't always take the easy road. She would lean into the paper, her left hand on her leg and her right hand holding the charcoal just above its irrevocable first mark, and she'd stare at the model as if she were taking aim at a Dall sheep. Her back would go tense as a cable. After a successful drawing she'd smile at nothing and walk up and down the hall during break, life in her face, smoking. She smoked a supermarket brand of cigarettes. They bore the same label as the canned peaches and toilet paper Eamon's wife bought.

He brought Frances a cup of coffee one day from the student center.

"You smoke too much," he said, surprising himself. He realized instantly he was searching for some footing with her. She considered his remark and put her cigarettes away.

"All right, one less," she said, smiling. Eamon felt a sudden rush of joy at his small success. One more step and he'd be courting her.

In twenty-five years of marriage, he had actually strayed only once. During the unbelievably adrenalin-charged season they built the haul road to the oil fields at Prudhoe Bay, he somehow found time—as if the extra energy he was expending actually increased his supply—to pursue the affections of a lovely young woman who had joined the Teamsters Union to drive the crew bus. She was a graduate student in French and Russian; she talked a lot about terrible things in European history—Armenia, the Spanish Civil War, pogroms. She gave him the Kathe Kollewitz print. But her face, in the twenty-four-hour sunlight, had the unasked-for beauty of the landscape around them. She was fresh and fair, with a wide, slow smile and a complete innocence of marriage. It broke Eamon's heart when she left Alaska at the end of the summer. Oil money, he told himself, it was oil money that drove everyone wild. The money eroded all the usual connections, just as water erodes everything in its path.

After that he started taking night classes. He liked the varied combinations of people that each class title attracted. He liked to see all these people off duty, being themselves. He'd taken philosophy, Alaskan literature, Alaska Native literature in translation, and senior men's water polo. And now he was learning to draw, learning to see. The hardest part was letting go and trusting himself to make the bold stroke. He admired the assurance in Frances's work and he admired it more because he could see that it frequently deserted her. She would spend ten minutes on the line between forearm, wrist, and hand. One night in late February the temperature swung down to minus forty. When he saw Frances zipping up insulated pants over her jeans and beginning to wrap her face, Eamon stopped on his way out of the studio. He touched her shoulder.

"It's cold tonight. How far do you walk?"

"Three miles." She read his expression and added, "Uphill. It keeps me warm."

"I'll give you a ride."

"I'm used to it."

"It's too cold," he said. "Your sketchbook will snap."

She smiled. "Well, thank you, then."

Inside the warm cab of Eamon's truck, she pulled off her helmet and the loose ends of her hair followed it.

"What is it you're used to," Eamon asked, "walking or cold weather?" "Both," she said, smiling.

She directed him to a cabin in the hills west of the university. He was pleased to see that she obviously lived alone. She said she had running water from a holding tank, electric lights, and a woodstove. Her landlord lived within sight in a fancy log chalet.

"Hard work, the simple life," he said.

"It's what you make time for, like anything else," she replied, looking at her home from the warm cab of the truck. He didn't turn the engine off. The heater purred around them; he imagined her cabin was stone cold. To his delight she began to talk. "I used to grind my own flour, things like that, thought nothing of it. I walk as much as possible so that I'll stay used to it. I knew a guy once who even walked out to the airport when he had to catch a plane. You just leave early, he said. He wouldn't accept a ride. I'm not that far gone, though. Thank you for the lift."

"Sure," Eamon said. "Why did you stop? Grinding flour?"

"I live in town now. I buy flour at Safeway, like everyone else. Oh, this was out on Woodchopper Creek, a long time ago." She said crick, like someone from the bush.

"Did you draw then?" he persisted.

"This and that. Mostly objects. The lantern on the table, Easter eggs in a rusty cup, the view from the window. Onions. Those things are easy. Not like a human figure." She put her hand on the door handle and paused. "You are much improved," she said.

"I'm sorry?"

She laughed, shyly. "Your sketches show that you're really enjoying the class. Putting something into it."

"That's nice of you to say. At my age, taking up art."

"I mean it. Any age, it's the doing that makes all the difference. Getting out and doing it. And it's hard, I know. Not fruit in a bowl that only changes with the light, but live ones. You know she's going to get up and shake herself in two minutes or twenty, and never come back to that pose; you'll never see it again. Is that what makes each one so beautiful?"

"I don't know."

"I don't mean to philosophize."

Her deep-set eyes impressed him. Like two passengers on a bus, he thought, they were looking out at the same scenery, he and Frances.

"Goodnight," he said.

He would have liked to see her in, but considering that she usually walked this far alone, it seemed an awkward courtesy. He didn't insist.

The very next week, spring came in a rush, or at least the beginning of spring: clean, wet clouds sailed through the valley and the snow started to settle as it evaporated, growing dirtier and dirtier, pockmarked with a winter's trash. A glacial pond grew in front of the Fine Arts building. Arriving for class early, Eamon couldn't have predicted his delight in finding Frances sitting on the puddingstone bench in front of the building, smoking and staring at booted students splashing to class. Her loneliness attracted him, he realized. They walked to the studio together.

Eamon had traveled in most of road-accessible Alaska; he had done his part to make it road-accessible. But he had never been to Woodchopper Creek, though he knew something of it. It lay above the Yukon River in a hidden, tortured patch of wilderness: creeks, game trails, and one all-but-illegal blaze made by a miner with a Caterpillar tractor years ago were the only access. She hadn't lived there alone. No mistake. It took one of those wild throwbacks, those socially undeveloped but ambitious youngsters so often drawn to Alaska, to want to set up housekeeping in a place like that. Eamon had never been tempted in that direction. He could not imagine hunkering down in those hills, laying out a line of traps as if you owned the place—sabotaging the game trails under the stunted black spruce trees, while back at the cabin the slavey kneads dough of hand-ground wheat berries, splits stove wood, surprises her man with homemade Christmas ornaments. Then, waiting—there must have been lots of waiting—takes out her watercolors and begins to sketch what she sees from the table. Arranges a pile of onions on a chipped tin plate.

She wasn't for that world, Frances, not someone who got so high on a twenty-minute pose that she paced the hall with burning cheeks, smiling in spite of herself. You're jealous, Eamon told himself, of the boy who had her alone out there. Before those trenches got worn under her eyes, before she started smoking.

Then she agreed to come out for a beer. There were six of them; she said little but laughed readily at the jokes and dipped into the bowl of pretzel sticks Eamon slid toward her every time she reached for her cigarettes. Eamon drove her home. He wanted so badly to come into her cabin that he didn't trust himself to speak.

"I'll see you after spring break," she said.

A week with no class. He had forgotten.

"Ah," he said, disappointed.

"Eamon."

"Yes?"

"Are you married?" She rolled down the window but made no move to get out.

"Yes."

"Are you sorry I asked?"

"You must understand," he said at last. "There are things in a person's life.... No, there are things outside of it, things good in themselves, like your company ..." Like a clearing in the trees, he thought. But he stopped; he didn't want to be talking them into something, using a line. "There are unexpected things, yet familiar, too. I'm all too familiar to myself, in fact. What the hell, talking this way, just talking like this—I know better. But I hereby disregard what I know."

She laughed. "Well then. I'm not saying I don't want to be with you. I'm just saying don't keep it from me. Okay?"

"Deal."

They looked at each other as she opened the door and let it swing open. She smiled. "Week after next," she said.

He reached out his arm and rested a hand on the back of her head, feeling the weight and shape of her skull, the thickness of her hair. He thought of his fingers going into that hair, how it would fill his hands. He thought of turning her head toward his. Instead he lifted a braid and tugged it gently. He put his hand on the shift.

"Good night," he said.

She walked slowly away, looking down as she picked her steps in the rough, wet snow. He watched the white V of her neck between her braids fade into the gray light.

In the driveway of his own home—four bedrooms, a family room, detached shop, cyclone-fenced dog run—he sat behind the wheel for a long time. He was going to come out of this bad. Women had changed. It was all new to him now, and he didn't look good to himself. There was still his marriage, which appeared to him like a matched five-foot shelf of books that no one ever opened. Frances, warm and alive

(Continues...)

Excerpted from THE CITY BENEATH THE SNOWby MARJORIE KOWALSKI COLE Copyright © 2012 by University of Alaska Press. Excerpted by permission of UNIVERSITY OF ALASKA PRESS. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
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Edition details

• Publisher: University of Alaska Press
• Publication date: 2012
• Language: English
• ISBN 10: 1602231834
• ISBN 13: 9781602231832
• Binding: Hardcover
• Number of pages: 295