All Under Heaven: Recipes from the 35 Cuisines of China

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9781607749820: All Under Heaven: Recipes from the 35 Cuisines of China
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A comprehensive, contemporary portrait of China's culinary landscape and the geography and history that has shaped it, with more than 300 recipes.

Vaulting from ancient taverns near the Yangtze River to banquet halls in modern Taipei, All Under Heaven is the first cookbook in English to examine all 35 cuisines of China. Drawing on centuries' worth of culinary texts, as well as her own years working, eating, and cooking in Taiwan, Carolyn Phillips has written a spirited, symphonic love letter to the flavors and textures of Chinese cuisine. With hundreds of recipes--from simple Fried Green Onion Noodles to Lotus-Wrapped Spicy Rice Crumb Pork--written with clear, step-by-step instructions, All Under Heaven serves as both a handbook for the novice and a source of inspiration for the veteran chef.

Los Angeles Times: Favorite Cookbooks of 2016

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About the Author:

Carolyn Phillips is a food writer, scholar, artist, and author of The Dim Sum Field Guide: A Taxonomy of Dumplings, Buns, Meats, Sweets, and Other Specialties of the Chinese Teahouse. Her work has appeared in numerous places, including Best Food Writing 2015, Lucky Peach, Gastronomica, BuzzFeed, Alimentum, Huffington Post, Zester Daily, Food52, and at the 2013 MAD Symposium in Copenhagen, as well as in her weekly blog, Madame Huang’s Kitchen (MadameHuang.com). She can be found on Twitter as @madamehuang and on Instagram as @therealmadamehuang. 

Carolyn’s art has appeared everywhere from museums and galleries to various magazines and journals to Nickelodeon’s Supah Ninjas series. She was a professional Mandarin interpreter in the federal and state courts for over a decade, and she and her husband recently acted as cultural consultants for the third Ghostbusters movie (2016). She lived in Taiwan for eight years, has translated countless books and articles, and married into a Chinese family more than thirty years ago.

Excerpt. Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.:

Nánjīng yánshuĭ yā 南京鹽水鴨
Nanjing Saltwater Duck 
Jiangsu · Serves 6 

Summer months in many parts of China are brutal, and on some days it can be very difficult to work up enthusiasm for food there. But man (and woman) cannot survive on ice cream and beer alone, and so the denizens of Jiangsu have come up with some pretty great summer foods. This simple yet delicious duck dish is one such example. 

In this recipe, the duck is salted overnight, cooked in nothing more than water, salt, and aromatics, and then chilled. It’s that easy. As far as what cut of duck to get, I’d recommend duck legs. They are a heck of a lot cheaper than buying an entire bird, they slice up easily once cold, and they are almost all meat. You will need a heavy cleaver to whack up the legs, however, so if you don’t have one, get duck breasts instead. They are just as tasty, and they can easily be boned and sliced once cooked. 

Duck and salt rub
4 whole duck legs (thighs attached) with skin on 
2 tablespoons coarse sea salt 
2 teaspoons five-spice powder (page 441 or store-bought) 
2 teaspoons ground toasted Sichuan peppercorns (page 441) 

Braising liquid 

2 green onions, trimmed 
1 star anise 
5 slices fresh ginger 
2 teaspoons sea salt 

1. Start this 2 days before you wish to serve it. Pat the duck dry and pluck off any pinfeathers you find, as well as the thin yellow skin. Place the legs in a plastic container. Sprinkle them with the salt and spices, rubbing the seasonings thoroughly into every part of the legs. Cover the container and chill for about 24 hours. 

2.
The next day, rinse the duck legs in plenty of cool tap water, being sure to get rid of all the salt and spices. Place the legs in a small saucepan and add the rest of the ingredients, as well as water to barely cover. Bring the water to a full boil, then lower the heat to a simmer. Poach the legs for 30 minutes and then remove the pan from the heat. Let the legs cool in the liquid. Remove the cooled legs to a resealable plastic bag and refrigerate overnight. Just before serving, use a very sharp heavy cleaver to whack the legs into .-inch-wide slices. Serve cold or just slightly chilled. 

Nanjing Saltwater Duck also makes a delicious appetizer or bar snack that will serve around 12.

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