This guide includes in-depth coverage of the sights of Nepal, and comprehensive restaurants and accommodation listings for all price brackets. It gives practical advice and information on trekking, rafting and mountain biking, plus sections on meditation, yoga and alternative therapies. Background essays on Nepal's ethnic groups, music and dance, natural history, religion, development dilemmas, history and politics are featured and the guide gives information the traveller needs to get off the beaten track to tea gardens, Tibetan refugee villages, monasteries, wildlife parks and hilltop forts.
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David Reed first visited Nepal in 1985, on a journey from Tibet, and developed an instant appreciation for its culinary advantages over China. James McConnachie is author of the forthcoming Rough Guide to the Loire and contributor on many
Recent trends
The past decade has brought great upheaval to Nepal, and there's probably more still to come. The country's political system, economic development and mercurial relationship with India all seem to be in a worrying state of flux.
But while political instability is unlikely to have much of a direct effect on your plans, other changes inevitably will. No guidebook can reliably predict quite how things will be by the time you get to Nepal, but the following recent trends give an idea of what's in store:
Maoist rebels are waging a guerrilla war against the government from their bases in remote hill areas. At the time of writing no incidents have involved tourists, and the rebels have stated publicly that they have no quarrel with foreigners, but seek the latest advice as you plan your trip.
New road-building is moving trailheads further into the hinterland, making some treks shorter and the transport to them longer. This year's great trek or bike ride is next year's dirt road, and the following year's paved road (and a few years later, it may be a trail again).
Tourist bus services are proliferating, making travel to certain places easier, but also turning those places into tourist traps.
Nepal is getting more and more packaged: for no good reason other than heavy marketing, organized tours, treks and safaris have become common, even for budget travellers.
The growth of budget tourist ghettos has been a major theme of the past decade. The commercialization is really dismaying in some areas, leading many returning travellers to complain that Nepal is "ruined". It's not, but parts of it are, so avoid them.
Fortunately, a Nepali cultural revival seems to be emerging, as Nepalis discover that they need not toss out traditional ways to cater to foreigners. Thus travellers dissatisfied with pseudo-Western food and facilities now have a growing range of good, indigenous alternatives to choose from.
Rural electrification is proceeding steadily, bringing not only lights but also videos, cable TV, email and a whole lot more contact with the outside world.
Rip-offs and theft are on the rise, owing to an influx of Indian immigrants, high unemployment and weak law enforcement. Nepal is still one of the mellowest and safest countries in the world, but it's no longer the hassle-free paradise it once was.
Prices have historically risen faster than average in the tourist areas, though oversupply is beginning to reverse this trend. Off the beaten track, prices if anything tend to decline in real terms.
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