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In an ice cave barely large enough for one we both somehow cramped in. With the equipment hung outside we couldn't help but think about the predicament we would be in if it fell away. After an uncomfortable night we forewent breakfast and a hot drink in exchange for an early start.
With frozen feet and hands we set off jumaring. A few clouds appeared telling us of a storm approaching. After a few pitches we stood under the second crux, a 500 ft band of water ice as steep as the first one. The climbing was very difficult and protection impossible in the thin ice. Above this ice band the mountain eased off, then shortly it allowed us to climb for one lead without the need of a belay.
The last 300 ft to the summit col proved to be more difficult than expected. The slope was about 55 to 60 degrees, with two feet of overlaying powder snow which had to be cleared away to get down to firmer snow beneath. This was the most unnerving part of the climb as due to the unstable snow, protection was impossible. Ross, having an ice axe in powder snow for a belay, didn't help matters much.
It was already overcast as we reached the summit col at 1 pm. Our plans were to traverse south over the summit to the east side escape route [Snowband Route first climbed by Bajan and Walsh in June, 1976] but our way was barred by thin and dangerous feathers which encrusted the summit ridge. We managed to reach a point about 20 vertical and 200 horizontal feet from the summit. We then opted for the west side escape route but again the ice feathers barred our way. We had no choice but to descend the vertical bowling alley. This escape route had only been attempted once before. The party turned back due to the stonefall and, with the steepness, fearing hanging rappel stations. With a dozen bolts and three drills we felt confident of success. Snow had already started to fall as I broke a drill on the first hole. A few rappels later another drill broke. Being hundreds of feet from the bottom with only one drill left gave us an uneasy feeling.
The mountain was starting to take its toll - nerves were getting edgy, falling snow and darkness surrounded us, fatigue was felt, I was only able to swing the hammer three times between rests. While this bolt was being driven in, it shattered some of the surrounding rock leaving a dicey looking anchor. We decided to go for it anyway. After tying off the bolt, the nut was tightened to prevent the sling from slipping off. But while doing this the bolt popped out of the hole. Fortunately we were able to find another anchor and the last few rappels were completed safely to the bottom
Bajan and Nichol's descent had been an epic and they were both lucky to get off safely as they were both extremely tired. They had been without water and hot food for the past twenty-eight hours. Unable to continue any further, they spent another uncomfortable night outdoors. All they could think of was the hot springs they were going to visit the following weekend.
This climb really put Mt. Colonel Foster on the map as a world class climb. In January, 1985, Doug Scott, one of the world's foremost mountaineers from England, visited the Colonel'. He was accompanied by Greg Child, a Seattle based Australian climber, and Rob Wood, a local climber and good friend of Doug's. Over the three days they climbed a new winter route (Bajan's Grand Central Couloir) on the East Face. Scott wrote:
It's remote here and there aren't the facilities. The challenges here are comparable with anywhere else and far more than the Alps because there are so many huts and ski lifts there.
Four years later Rob Wood, with John Kelson again visited Mt. Colonel Foster in the middle of February and the Bajan/Nichol East face Route (Direttissima) received its second ascent. Six weeks after the second ascent, Joe Bajan and Steve Risse from Seattle, climbed this route in a twenty-seven hour round trip from Landslide Lake. Familiarity with the route (and good conditions) allowed these quick climbs, especially when you consider the climb usually took three days.
Mt. Colonel Foster has more routes on it than any other Island mountain and there are still many unclimbed challenges remaining. No matter what the future holds for the Colonel' and the climbers who visit it, it will always remain A Mountaineer's Mountain'.
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Book Description Soft cover. Condition: Very Good. 1st Edition. Inscribed by author on the title page. First printing in tall paper covers. 128 pp. Colour photographs, maps, notes, bibliography, index. Minor bumps to the front corners. Very Good. Inscribed by Author(s). Seller Inventory # 247423
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