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Beyond Nootka: A historical perspective of Vancouver Island mountains - Softcover

 
9780968015902: Beyond Nootka: A historical perspective of Vancouver Island mountains
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Nootka Sound on the West Coast of Vancouver Island was the site where the first European, Captain James Cook, landed and the exploration of the island began, hence the title Beyond Nootka. Beyond Nootka is the first comprehensive history of the mountain regions of Vancouver Island. It recounts the tales of the early explorers, prospectors, surveyors and mountaineers as they pushed into ever more remote regions of Vancouver Island. Research and interviews with pioneers and their descendants give this a unique perspective and a wealth of information which will appeal to a wide audience, from climbers to history buffs. Featuring historical photos and maps as well as colour photos of modern day climbers on their significant routes. Beyond Nootka focuses on the major mountains of the Golden Hinde, Elkhorn, Big Interior Mountain, Rugged Mountain, Mt. Arrowsmith and Mt. Colonel Foster. Read about first ascents and tales of local climbers such as Mike Walsh, Joe Bajan, Geoffrey Capes and Sandy Briggs.

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From the Author:
I was born in Australia and moved to New Zealand at an early age where my passion for mountaineering began. Before arriving in Canada, I climbed and travelled extensively in New Zealand, South America, Asia, Europe and North Africa, and worked for the United States Antarctic Research Program at McMurdo Sound. I now live in Courtenay on Vancouver Island and work as a mountaineering instructor. This book came about after wanting to know more about the early explorers of the area and the climbing history to help put my own experience into perspective. As I became more familiar with the mountains through my own journeys, I noticed discrepancies with what I had read about the area and decided to seek out the truth for myself. Eventually I obtained enough information to, as a natural consequence, put a book together. I don't consider myself a writer, I'm a researcher who has compiled the information presented into a form that is more succinct and more readable. I believe that the colourful past of the early pioneers must not be forgotten but help to bring a better understanding and respect to the wild spaces on Vancouver Island.
Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.:
From Chapter 8. The new lead of the day was on the first crux, 600 ft of vertical and near vertical ice. Running out 300 ft leads on ice of this angle was extremely tiring and, to worsen matters, spindrift avalanches continually cascaded upon us. While jumaring on this pitch one of Ross's crampons went tumbling off to the glacier below. Without much discussion we decided to keep going. I was to do the leading while Ross with the heavier pack would second, jumaring when required. The day closed with us about halfway up the face with a further 100 ft of fixed rope in place.

In an ice cave barely large enough for one we both somehow cramped in. With the equipment hung outside we couldn't help but think about the predicament we would be in if it fell away. After an uncomfortable night we forewent breakfast and a hot drink in exchange for an early start.

With frozen feet and hands we set off jumaring. A few clouds appeared telling us of a storm approaching. After a few pitches we stood under the second crux, a 500 ft band of water ice as steep as the first one. The climbing was very difficult and protection impossible in the thin ice. Above this ice band the mountain eased off, then shortly it allowed us to climb for one lead without the need of a belay.

The last 300 ft to the summit col proved to be more difficult than expected. The slope was about 55 to 60 degrees, with two feet of overlaying powder snow which had to be cleared away to get down to firmer snow beneath. This was the most unnerving part of the climb as due to the unstable snow, protection was impossible. Ross, having an ice axe in powder snow for a belay, didn't help matters much.

It was already overcast as we reached the summit col at 1 pm. Our plans were to traverse south over the summit to the east side escape route [Snowband Route first climbed by Bajan and Walsh in June, 1976] but our way was barred by thin and dangerous feathers which encrusted the summit ridge. We managed to reach a point about 20 vertical and 200 horizontal feet from the summit. We then opted for the west side escape route but again the ice feathers barred our way. We had no choice but to descend the vertical bowling alley. This escape route had only been attempted once before. The party turned back due to the stonefall and, with the steepness, fearing hanging rappel stations. With a dozen bolts and three drills we felt confident of success. Snow had already started to fall as I broke a drill on the first hole. A few rappels later another drill broke. Being hundreds of feet from the bottom with only one drill left gave us an uneasy feeling.

The mountain was starting to take its toll - nerves were getting edgy, falling snow and darkness surrounded us, fatigue was felt, I was only able to swing the hammer three times between rests. While this bolt was being driven in, it shattered some of the surrounding rock leaving a dicey looking anchor. We decided to go for it anyway. After tying off the bolt, the nut was tightened to prevent the sling from slipping off. But while doing this the bolt popped out of the hole. Fortunately we were able to find another anchor and the last few rappels were completed safely to the bottom

Bajan and Nichol's descent had been an epic and they were both lucky to get off safely as they were both extremely tired. They had been without water and hot food for the past twenty-eight hours. Unable to continue any further, they spent another uncomfortable night outdoors. All they could think of was the hot springs they were going to visit the following weekend.

This climb really put Mt. Colonel Foster on the map as a world class climb. In January, 1985, Doug Scott, one of the world's foremost mountaineers from England, visited the Colonel'. He was accompanied by Greg Child, a Seattle based Australian climber, and Rob Wood, a local climber and good friend of Doug's. Over the three days they climbed a new winter route (Bajan's Grand Central Couloir) on the East Face. Scott wrote:

It's remote here and there aren't the facilities. The challenges here are comparable with anywhere else and far more than the Alps because there are so many huts and ski lifts there.

Four years later Rob Wood, with John Kelson again visited Mt. Colonel Foster in the middle of February and the Bajan/Nichol East face Route (Direttissima) received its second ascent. Six weeks after the second ascent, Joe Bajan and Steve Risse from Seattle, climbed this route in a twenty-seven hour round trip from Landslide Lake. Familiarity with the route (and good conditions) allowed these quick climbs, especially when you consider the climb usually took three days.

Mt. Colonel Foster has more routes on it than any other Island mountain and there are still many unclimbed challenges remaining. No matter what the future holds for the Colonel' and the climbers who visit it, it will always remain A Mountaineer's Mountain'.

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  • PublisherMisthorn Press
  • Publication date1996
  • ISBN 10 0968015905
  • ISBN 13 9780968015902
  • BindingPaperback
  • Edition number1
  • Number of pages128
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