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Many of Franey's recipes begin with a short explanation of where or why he first made the dish. He begins his recipe for Sautéed Trout with Lime, for instance, by describing a sudden craving for trout he experienced one day and the lengths to which he went to find a fresh fish. Often he includes tips and tricks to make preparation even easier. In Skate with Black Butter Sauce, he warns that a skate's wing-shaped fins have many long bones, but shows how they are easily removed. These introductions, plus the fact that every recipe uses easy-to-find ingredients (and it's usually a short list), make this book read more like a treasured inheritance from a favorite uncle who loved to cook than a "Classic Cookbook" written by someone most of us never had the privilege of meeting. --Leora Y. Bloom
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