The owner and culinary advisor for the famous Mezzaluna restaurants, our nation's best-known trattorias, shares the secrets behind his acclaimed seasonal Italian fare. This cookbook embodies Italian food at its best--light, uncomplicated, and full of fresh flavor. Black-and-white photographs.

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Despite the surfeit of books on Italian cuisine, there are some fresh, innovative ideas contained in this one, mainly in the form of casual recipes. Promoted are such regional specialties as Piedmontese veal tartare, insalate Pantesca (with a mix of tuna, potatoes, capers, onions, and tomatoes), carpaccios in many forms, pastas with unusual sauces, pesto and pignoli nuts pizza, and a highly flavored espresso pudding. The emphasis is on fresh ingredients; most of the recipes are quick and convenient. Barbara Jacobs

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