Largely the result of the neglect and vandalism that accompanied the end of the Manchu dynasty in 1911, and of Mao Zedong's vision of a "New China" three decades later, Beijing today boasts all the ills of an overcrowded, polluted, and inefficient Third World metropolis. All that remains of the imposing walls that once enclosed an enchanting city are two gates, and the princely mansions that dotted the city have either been demolished or taken over by the communist gentry.
In Search of Old Peking is a lament for a bygone era in Chinese history. Written in 1935 by L.C. Arlington, an American who had served in the Customs and Postal Administrations since his arrival in China in 1879, and William Lewisohn, A British Army officer turned journalist, this book is a labor of love, the result of the authors' determination to record the delights, both great and small, of the city that had captured their imaginations, even as it was beginning its decline. The descriptions of buildings and monuments, gardens public spaces are set in the wider context of Chinese history, and are enhanced by lively anecdotes of Chinese life. In addition, a wealth of photographs, linecuts, and maps further bring to life the Forbidden City at the height of its glory.
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Wonderful, evocative account of old Peking before the mass destruction by the current regime. This book reads like the wonderful Blue Guides of Europe (before Blue Guide recently changed the format and gutted so much of the information). The extent of description is amazing - the Lama Temple's rituals, for example, involving canabalism in pantomine: the monks worked themselves into a frenzy and then tore to shreds a man-like figure made of dough and filled with red liquid jam - mess everywhere!. The authors also recommended that tourists of the day go armed in the temple because of the determined attentions (ahem!) of the monks. I used this book as a guide in the 90's while living in Hong Kong and visiting Peking - it still had great value despite all the losses (the coverage of the Forbidden City is incredible) I found many interesting out-of-the-way spots I would have missed if I'd relied on my strangely (sadly) poor Blue Guide China. In Search of Peking is one of those books (like Austin Coates' Myself a Mandarin for Hong Kong) that will really make you glad you lived (or visited) in China, despite all the modern concrete.
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