A retrospective look at the work of one of the most influential fashion photographers of his generation.
Jü rgen Teller first became famous for his innovative fashion editorials published in magazines such as i-D, W, and The Face. His work redefined the aesthetics of fashion photography, moving away from the glamour and gloss of the 1980s to the more brutally direct realism of the 1990s.
Teller captures his subjects at seemingly unrehearsed moments, revealing them in all their imperfection and vulnerability. Whether he is photographing supermodels and celebrities or himself and his family, Teller finds poetry in the everyday, creating images that are poignant, humorous, rough, or tender. This book includes the major icons of his work in fashion, as well as new and previously unpublished images. 150 color illustrations.
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As a fashion photographer, Teller has been rapped for doing snapshots, and it's true that the brutally cropped, distressingly "overexposed" examples of his haute couture work in this book appear rough and unready. In the context, however, of the travel photos and nature studies that constitute most of what's on display here, the weird fancy-clothes photos help establish a strong artistic persona. Though hardly averse to a conscious composition--as his clownish nude self-portraits attest at one end of the sobriety spectrum, his painterly snow studies at the other--Teller dislikes studied and professional posing. So he glides around professional subjects without giving directions, and on a family trip to Japan, makes his unselfconscious, new--toddler son the star of the proceedings. He favors brightness, letting whites, creams, and yellows suffuse most frames to the point where they compromise focus and detail. The cheery, cheeky naturalness of his pictures of people he complements with blazing visions of complexity in nature--the snow pictures, and also branches against blank skies and walls, ocean-wave foam, and the flying V of migrating birds--and with wry appraisals of manmade peculiarities, such as hilly Japanese residential streets that look distressingly off-kilter. This is a man who delights in seeing the world with a camera but probably delights more in the world per se. Ray Olson
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