Fodor's Compass New Orleans 4ed.Created by local writers and photographers, Compass American Guides are the ultimate insider's guides, providing in-depth coverage of the history, culture, and character of America's most spectacular destinations. Covering everything there is to see and do as well as choice lodging and dining, these gorgeous full-color guides are perfect for new and longtime residents as well as vacationers who want a deep understanding of the region they're visiting.
Outstanding color photography, plus a wealth of archival imagesTopical essays and literary extractsDetailed color mapsGreat ideas for things to see and doCapsule reviews of hotels and restaurants
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Richard Sexton is a New Orleans-based photographer, writer, and lecturer. He also teaches photography at the New Orleans Academy of Fine Arts. His work has appeared in numerous publications, including Southern Accents, Garden Design, and Smithsonian. His many books include Vestiges of Grandeur (0-8118-1817-9) and Gardens of New Orleans (0-8118-2421-7).
Randolph Delehanty has written over a dozen books including San Francisco Victorians (0-8118-2771-2) and Randolph Delehanty's Ultimate Guide to New Orleans (0-8118-0870-X), which explores the Big Easy with a dozen walking tours. He lives in San Francisco.
INTRODUCTION
The name New Orleans invariably conjures up the succulent aroma of sweet olive, the syncopation of jazz and ceiling fans, and the vision of black-haired, magnolia-fleshed damsels fanning themselves as they sit in white wicker chairs on lacy wrought-iron verandas. La Nouvelle Orleans was the original Dixie, named in the mid-19th century by the hell-raising Kentucky flatboatmen who traded their merchandise in the city for the dix or $10 paper tender minted in New Orleans. Though geographically Southern, it is not a garden-variety Southern city in the sense of Richmond, Memphis, Savannah, or Montgomery. It is more of a Caribbean port city, anchored in the continental United States by what often seems a mere socio-geographical accident.
An hour before dawn, the French Quarter becomes mantled in timelessness. The shimmer of streetlights is reflected on cobbled sidewalks dampened by gentle mist. The cries of a trumpet commingle with a few bluesy chords from Luther Kent's finale in the dying hours. On the swollen Mississippi, giant tankers quietly slip down the river towards the open mouth of the Gulf. For a few moments the dull roar of their engines is drowned out by the clanging bell of the riverfront streetcar, which beckons a handful of the night shift from a late-night restaurant. They have stopped to savor conversation, thick chicory-laced coffee, and beignets (New Orleans's famous doughnuts) en route to their beds Uptown. A few blocks downriver, at the 200-year-old French Market, the produce vendors lean against the dull green fender of a Ford pick-up as they sing along with Fats Domino on the radio.
New Orleanians prefer to see themselves as part of a festival of cultures. There are more facets to the city's multi-culturalism than there are varieties of hot sauce in a local grocery store. New Orleans is a place where people from all walks of life smile or nod when they pass strangers on the street. People encountering each other on a public bus or streetcar more than three times may feel like they're close enough friends to share a grandmother's recipe for bread pudding.
The ambiance and magic of New Orleans is impossible to appreciate at a fast clip. It is a city that gladly relinquishes its secrets to those who take the time to wander. For those who have only a short time between meetings, parades, concerts, or meals, the best thing to do would be to see one area thoroughly, preferably on foot. New Orleans is a loosely connected amalgam of neighborhoods, many of which still have their own curbside vegetable wagons, at least three snowball stands, 10 or so corner bars, a half-dozen combination po-boy sandwich/grocery stores, and a smattering of folks who pass the day stoop-sitting and visitin' with all those who pass and savor the aroma that drifts out of their kitchens.
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