In France, a nation of small villages, an incredible variety of soups have evolved over time, with cherished family recipes handed down from generation to generation. The Soups of France uncovers those recipes, many still enjoyed today, others long forgotten. From famed Pot-au-Feu and Bouillabaisse to Baratxuri Salda, a spicy Basque broth of garlic, sausage, and red pepper, and the Dordogne’s Sobronade, ham and bean soup, each of the 90-plus recipes celebrates a melting pot of flavor. Rich with glorious photographs illustrating the lush countryside, quaint villages, and vibrant marketplaces, The Soups of France is a delightful culinary ramble. A labor of love on an art the French take for granted, this is a treasure no true collection of cookery books should be without.
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What a treasure! The Soups of France feels luxurious, with its heavy-stock paper and stunning color photographs of the French countryside, and is peppered throughout with thoughtful literary quotes about food and sweet M.F.K. Fisher-style commentary by the author, Lois Anne Rothert. Rothert spent 10 years collecting these recipes, translating them from French, and clarifying the older ones that used measurements like "handfuls." She shares their origins in a way that will transport you to the villages, hamlets, and farms where she found them. Some of the recipes are familiar, such as Soupe au Pistou and pot-au-feu, but most are more unusual. From the southwest, Rothert presents a rich, comforting Chestnut and Pumpkin Soup, and from the Rhone-Alps, an Alpine Cheese-Glazed Root Vegetable Soup that's hearty and filling, with an intoxicating aroma.
Surprisingly, many of the soups are quite easy to prepare, such as a puréed Wild Mushroom and Hazelnut Soup from the Franche-Comté (the resulting texture is almost velvety), and a Garlic, Sausage, and Red Pepper Soup from the Basque country that's ready in about half an hour. There are recipes for the more adventurous too, including Frogs' Legs in Watercress Cream and Stinging Nettle and Potato Soup. But what's most wonderful about this book is the pleasure you'll get from it even when you're not cooking. Francophiles will love reading about Rothert's experiences, and foodies will love her generous descriptions of the traditions, history, and techniques she learned about while researching The Soups of France. --Leora Y. Bloom
Lois Anne Rothert is the founder of duJour, an Indiana restaurant of French-influenced cuisine. She has spent the last ten years collecting the many soup recipes served at the restaurant and travelling the French countryside in search of their origins.
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