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Synopsis
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About the Author
Dr. Tony Butt is a big wave specialist based in the Basque Country, and postdoctoral research fellow at the University of Plymouth, England. He is a regular contributor to European surfing magazines and runs a wave prediction website. Dr. Paul Russell was twice European Surfing Champion and is now reader in coastal dynamics at the School of Earth, Ocean and Environmental Sciences, University of Plymouth.
Richard (Rick) Grigg pioneered big-wave surfing on the North Shore of O'ahu, Hawai'i, and is now professor of oceanography at the University of Hawai'i.
Review
"One of the most sophisticated surfing books ever produced... a must for any surfer." -- Surfer's Journal
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