Madeleine Vionnet - Hardcover

Kirke, Betty

4.64

72 ratings by Goodreads

Hardcover

ISBN 10: 1452110697 ISBN 13: 9781452110691

Publisher: Chronicle Books, 2012

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This "spectacular tribute to a designer of breathtaking grace and originality" (Threads) is the definitive volume on the legendary Madeleine Vionnet's life and work. Now back in print with a fresh new cover, this reissue marks the occasion of the 100th anniversary of the House of Vionnet and the revival of the Vionnet brand. Lavishly illustrated in over 400 photographs, sketches, and with complete patterns for 30 of the most influential designs of this architect among dressmakers, this exquisite volume is an essential reference for fashion students and a vibrant portrait of a grande dame of 20th century couture.

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Review:

Madeleine Vionnet's greatest distinction as a designer was her discovery of the bias cut. Cutting patterns along the bias forces the fabric to cling to the body and move with it, which created her trademark look of draped, form-conscious clothing. When designer Issey Miyake first saw a Vionnet dress, it was like the first time he saw Winged Victory at the Louvre: "I thought then that the statue of Nike had been reincarnated in the dresses by Vionnet. She had captured the most beautiful aspect of classical Greek aesthetics: the body and movement." Vionnet's long career as a dressmaker and designer began with the 20th century. Always conscious of women's bodies and inspired in part by modern dancer Isadora Duncan, she soon dispensed with corsets and other constricting garments, and used barefoot models to present her first solo collection. Though simple, her dresses were never plain; the use of a Cartier necklace as a halter strap is a classic Vionnet innovation. This inimitable combination of comfort and glamour made Vionnet's clothes a favorite among European nobility, Hollywood royalty--notably Marlene Dietrich, Gypsy Rose Lee, and Katharine Hepburn--as well as socialites and other trendsetters. Close to a century after its introduction, the bias cut remains an important element in clothing design.

Madeleine Vionnet is a tall book that echoes many of the designs inside. It is filled with contemporary photographs of the clothing, period pictures shot by Man Ray and Steichen, design sketches, and, perhaps most interestingly, patterns for the clothes. The accompanying text traces Vionnet's evolution from an 11-year-old seamstress, through her days apprenticing at the famed Callot Soeurs couture house in Paris, and on into the design empire that secured her an enduring spot in fashion history.

About the Author:

Betty Kirke is a lecturer and instructor in costume conservation. She lives in New York City.

Issey Miyake is a world-renowned fashion designer based in Tokyo, Japan.

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