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Synopsis
The boldness with which we saw [the Hawaiians] perform these difficult and dangerous maneuvers was altogether astonishing. . . . Penned over 200 years ago, Captain Cook's words could be written today with no less awe or sincerity. In Waikiki, the Hawaiians were the first people to harness the surf as a source of pleasure. Where, for thousands of years, cultures living on the coastlines of the world's great oceans had seen waves only as menacing natural adversaries, the Hawaiians saw fun. Today, as surfers push the boundaries of wave riding, the ultimate test for the surfing elite remains Hawaii's formidable waves. The Soul of Surfing is Fred Hemmings's "talking story" about surfing's culture and history, his own long association with the sport, and everything from surfer slang to the daredevils who risk death to challenge the big waves.
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About the Author
World Surfing Champion for 1968, Fred Hemmings has been riding waves for over 40 years. He lives in Oahu.
"About this title" may belong to another edition of this title.
- PublisherThunder's Mouth Press
- Publication date1999
- ISBN 10 1560252057
- ISBN 13 9781560252054
- BindingPaperback
- Number of pages151
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The Soul of Surfing
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ISBN 10: 1560252057
ISBN 13: 9781560252054
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