The Kerguelens - isolated French islands in the southern Indian Ocean - were the home of the Arch of Kerguelen, a 1,000-foot-tall stone vault that had confounded navigators for centuries. Jean-Paul Kauffmann finds poetry in the isolation and strangely serene beauty of this land far from the hustle of "civilized" life, where the vast ocean dominates, where the wind reigns and solitude is interrupted only by animals scrambling in the windswept fields by the graves of those who journeyed there before.
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Text: English (translation)
Original Language: French
Few islands are as remote as the Kerguelens, a treeless, roadless waste in the southern Indian Ocean. Kauffmann voyaged there--the only access is by ship--in 1991 and produced this wonderfully ethereal account of the place and its history. The islands were discovered in 1772 by Yves-Joseph de Kerguelen, a gloomy Breton whose disappointment with his find was reexperienced by everyone who tried to do anything with the Kerguelens. A century passed before any French returned, when the Boissiere brothers started a sheep-raising operation. That miserable failure was followed by a short-lived whaling operation, then by a failed colonization attempt. No tree grows in the Kerguelens, but the wind blows, a fierce, perpetual gale that shapes moods, accenting the sense of desolation, of geographical orphanage, that the Kerguelens impart. Nobody lingers, all long to leave, not least the annual missions France rotates through the Kerguelens to assert its sovereignty. A fine discovery in itself, Kauffman's story effectively comments on the ambience created when human dreams face nature's indifference. Gilbert Taylor
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