This anthology, devoted to climbing on the world's two highest mountains, spans the years 1933 through 1996. It describes the development of climbing these two peaks, reminds us that Everest and K2 are among the world most dangerous places, and explains why the world's best climbers cannot stay away from them. The book includes prose about mountaineering's ultimate challenges by writers such as Jon Krakauer, David Roberts and Chris Bonington. Matt Dickinson tells what it is like for an amateur to climb a swaying aluminium ladder on Everest's North Col route; Jim Haberl waits high on K2's Abruzzi Ridge for sunrise over China to warm his extremities; Maria Coffey mourns the loss of her beloved who died on Everest's unclimbed Northeast Ridge; and Doug Scott summits Everest via the difficult Southwest face.
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Editor Clint Willis collects some of mountaineering's finest writing in these tales from storied expeditions to grails like Everest and K2. Included are classic accounts of early American attempts on K2, by consensus the most daunting and ruthless peak to summit. Frank Smythe's telling of his 1933 attempt and Charles Houston and Robert Bates's from 1938 typify the wooly-knickered bravado of pre-war climbing. As counterpoint, Willis serves up Galen Rowell's sad and unadorned journal from the tempestuous 1975 failed expedition.
But there are other angles as well. Tucked in the middle of High is a gem told by an Everest widow, Maria Coffey, who traveled to the base of the mountain that took her husband and his partner: "I could pick out the ridge where Joe and Pete were last seen. The image blurred, tears were washing down my face and collecting in the jacket collar pulled tightly around my chin." In a collection of writing that soars it is a moving--and grounding--reminder of mountaineering's risks. --Tipton Blish
Clint Willis edited Epic, Stories of Survival from the World's Highest Peaks. He lives in Cape Elizabeth, ME.
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