Originally published to coincide with a major V&A exhibition, "Brand New" takes a look at contemporary consumer culture and the proliferation of brand identities which affect all our daily lives at the beginning of the 21st century. Ranging across fashion, design and media, "Brand New" sets out some provocative debates about brands, design and consuming habits. Five key sections look at: the economics and business of branding; personal and social identities in a global, commodified world; the shopping experience from mall to website and the ethical and social questions for both brand and consumer. 20 short features complement the main text, presenting snapshots of retail, branding and consumer behaviour from around the world. Critics, historians, anthropologists, sociologists, designers as well as voices from the business world offer a range of opinions on topics as diverse as shopping in China, fakes and counterfeiting, and the branding of personality. It is aimed at students and observers of modern culture and should appeal to anyone who shops as well as those with an interest in advertising, product design and fashion.
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Now that all the world's a mall, virtual or otherwise, consumption as disease takes on a new meaning. Branding used to happen only to cattle and convicts. Now it dictates values of personal identity, reliability, quality, and service, as well as inspiring sinister conspiracy theories of brainwashing by the multinationals. So thank goodness for the superb catalog of the Victoria and Albert Museum's "brand.new" exhibition. It examines in considerable--even consuming--depth the role of the brand in retail history and its continuing relevance. Amid scattered, glossy selections of the best of photographic advertisement, as well as emblematic historical and sociological images, are several longer essays on background, brand philosophy, and labeling; a consideration of the impact of e-commerce through the "death of distance"; and a broader history of the shopping center. In fact, the book justifies the cover value alone for pointing out that the world's first supermarket opened its doors in Memphis, Tennessee, in 1916, under the peerless (brand) name Piggly Wiggly. Ironically, its regressive, kitsch ring would most likely see it succeed today. There is also a clutch of two-page meditations on matters such as counterfeiting, the dubious notion of multinationals like McDonald's helping to reinforce local culture, second-hand goods, and Japanese school-girl wares.
Perhaps the most interesting section, though, is the final one, on "subvertising," the political backlash against global marketing, and the movement to champion environmental concerns. Anti-capitalist demonstrations in Seattle, global market concerns, Death cigarettes, and the Adbusters campaigns have seen people fighting back and expressing themselves through the courts or the media. At the same time, the growing demand for organic goods and farmers' markets shows how shopping trends are becoming at least "light green," and more ethically informed. Whether one "does the shopping," "goes shopping," or just "shops around," this attractively expressed forum of ideas generally steers clear of pseudo-scientific semiotic jargon (excepting the occasional "brandscape" or "brand DNA"), and is lavishly produced to the V&A's customary high standards--something that bears out the credo of its subject matter and helps it metamorphose from product to "brand." --David Vincent, Amazon.co.uk
Jane Pavitt is University of Brighton/V&A Senior Research Fellow and Curator of the exhibition Brand.New at the V&A in October 2000.
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