What strikes visitors more than anything about London is the sheer size of the place. With a population of just under eight million, it’s Europe’s largest city by far, spreading across an area of more than 620 square miles from its core on the River Thames. Londoners tend to cope with this by compartmentalizing the city, identifying with the neighbourhoods in which they work or live, and making occasional forays into the "centre of town" – the West End, London’s shopping and entertainment heartland.
Ethnically, London is also Europe’s most diverse metropolis, and for those without local roots the place can seem bafflingly diverse. With around two hundred languages spoken within its confines and all the major religions represented, London is more like an entire country than a single city. Over thirty percent of the population is made up of first, second- and third-generation immigrants, while some claim as many as 75 percent of white Londoners are in fact descended from French Huguenot refugees.
Despite Scottish, Welsh and Northern Irish devolution, London still dominates the national horizon, too: this is where the country’s news and money are made, it’s where the central government resides and, as far as its inhabitants are concerned, provincial life begins beyond the circuit of the city’s orbital motorway. Londoners’ sense of superiority causes enormous resentment in the regions, yet it’s undeniable that the capital has a unique aura of excitement and success – in most walks of British life, if you want to get on you’ve got to do it in London.
For the visitor too, London is a thrilling place – and since the beginning of the new millennium, the city has also been overtaken by an exceptionally buoyant mood. Thanks to the lottery and the millennium-oriented funding frenzy of the last few years, virtually every one of London’s world-class museums, galleries and institutions has been reinvented, from the Royal Opera House to the British Museum. With the completion of the Tate Modern and the London Eye, the city can now boast the world’s largest modern art gallery and Ferris wheel; there’s also a new tube extension, a new tram system (albeit in the suburbs) and the first new bridge to cross the central section of the Thames for over a hundred years. And after sixteen years of being the only major city in the world not to have its own governing body, London finally has its own elected mayor and assembly.
In the meantime, London’s traditional sights – Big Ben, Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace, St Paul’s Cathedral and the Tower of London – continue to draw in millions of tourists every year. Monuments from the capital’s more glorious past are everywhere to be seen, from medieval banqueting halls and the great churches of Sir Christopher Wren to the eclectic Victorian architecture of the triumphalist British Empire. There is also much enjoyment to be had from the city’s quiet Georgian squares, the narrow alleyways of the City of London, the riverside walks, and the quirks of what is still identifiably a collection of villages. Even London’s traffic pollution – one of its worst problems – is offset by surprisingly large expanses of greenery: Hyde Park, Green Park and St James’s Park are all within a few minutes’ walk of the West End, while, further afield, you can enjoy the more expansive parklands of Hampstead Heath and Richmond Park.
You could spend days just shopping in London too, hob-nobbing with the upper classes in Harrods, or sampling the offbeat weekend markets of Portobello Road, Brick Lane, Greenwich and Camden. The music, clubbing and gay/lesbian scene is second to none, and mainstream arts are no less exciting, with regular opportunities to catch brilliant theatre companies, dance troupes, exhibitions and opera. Restaurants these days, are an attraction too. London has caught up with its European rivals, and offers a range from three-star Michelin establishments to low-cost, high-quality Indian curry houses. Meanwhile, the city’s pubs have heaps of atmosphere, especially away from the centre – and an exploration of the farther-flung communities is essential to get the complete picture of this dynamic metropolis.
WHEN TO GO
Considering the temperateness of the English climate, it's amazing how much mileage the locals get out of the subject - a two-day cold snap is discussed as if it were the onset of a new Ice Age, and a week in the upper 70s starts rumours of drought. The fact is that English summers rarely get hot and the winters don't get very cold, though they're often wet. The bottom line is that it's impossible to say with any degree of certainty that the weather will be pleasant in any given month. May might be wet and grey one year and gloriously sunny the next, and the same goes for the autumnal months - November stands an equal chance of being crisp and clear or foggy and grim.
As far as crowds go, tourists stream into London pretty much all year round, with peak season from Easter to October, and the biggest crush in July and August, when you'll need to book your accommodation well in advance. Costs, however, are pretty uniform year-round.
"synopsis" may belong to another edition of this title.
Museums are delved into, often with room-by-room coverage, so you can pick your "must-sees" and better plan your visit. Italicized margin notes offer useful information including the nearest tube (subway) or train stations, where to get tickets, opening hours, and other helpful tidbits like "the river walk may not be accessible during very high tides." London's food has come a long way from shepherd's pie, and a restaurant directory boasts everything from Tex-Mex to a vegetarian's delight: lentil pizza.
To help you put it all into perspective, the back of the book offers an architectural chronology accompanied by main historical events, plus an enticing list of films and books that lend insight into the real London.
"About this title" may belong to another edition of this title.
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