At 5896 metres (nearly four miles) above sea level, the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro is the highest point on earth which can be reached by ordinary people. Any walker with enough stamina and determination may be able to reach "the roof of Africa". This book offers practical advice on preparing yourself, planning your trip to Tanzania, and choosing your equipment. Success is not guaranteed, as the huge altitude gain makes it hard to acclimatize, but the author offers advice on preventing and managing Acute Mountain Sickness based on medical research and her own experience of two ascents. This is a mountain of contrasts and extremes. You walk from tropical rain forest into arctic conditions through a landscape formed by ice and fire. Descriptions of the two most popular walking routes (Marangu and Machame) are illustrated with detailed mapping, altitude profiles and many photographs. Other sections cover the habitats and wildlife, history and local culture, and are valid for all ascent routes.
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Jacquetta Megarry took up walking in 1998, starting with Scotland s West Highland Way. She progressed to climbing Mount Kilimanjaro in 1999 (Marangu route) and in 2000 (Machame route). She devised the Rucksack Reader format to meet the needs of long-distance walkers.
From Part One (Which route?): Although there are dozens of routes up the mountain, the most popular routes for walkers are Marangu and Machame. The route profiles (above) and maps (back cover) show how much they differ. They are described day-by-day later ...
The Machame route is much more strenuous, because
you walk farther
you do more climbing and descending en route to your summit attempt
the terrain is rougher so the walking takes more effort.
Sensible Marangu operators arrange an extra night for acclimatisation at Horombo, offering an optional walk in the Saddle region. On this basis, both routes involve five nights on the mountain, but if you are feeling sore or tired, the Marangu route lets you choose how much or little you do on Day 3, whereas on Machame you have no option.
You should also weigh up the accommodation. On Marangu, you eat and sleep in permanent bunk-bedded huts, with solar-powered electricity. Most huts take up to six people, except Kibo Hut which has 60 beds in five dormitories. People of either sex are allocated to huts on arrival. The toilet blocks mostly have running water and are close to the huts.
On Machame route, you sleep normally two to a three-man tent, with only your sleep mat between you and the ground-sheet, relying on your head-torch for lighting. You may find tents colder than the Marangu huts, but you have greater privacy: if you go with a friend or partner you will probably share a tent all week. However, the latrines (toilets) are generally more primitive and further away than on Marangu.
For some people, the choice is easy: if you dislike the idea of tented camping or doubt your ability to complete the more strenuous route, choose Marangu. (It is also called the tourist or Coca-Cola route , because soft drinks and bottled water are on sale in all the huts.) If you regard camping as a bonus, prefer a round trip that lets you see more of mountain scenery and are confident of your fitness, choose Machame. If you find the choice difficult, read Part 3 carefully and talk to somebody who has climbed the mountain.
The Machame route has a reputation for a higher success rate, ie more walkers reaching the summit. Estimates vary greatly, but around 40-50% seems average for Marangu, compared with 70-80% for Machame. This does not mean that you will improve your personal chances by choosing Machame. This percentage is inflated by the number of very fit, experienced hikers who are attracted to the more expensive, more extended route; they are more likely to succeed whichever route they choose. Also, the Marangu figure is depressed by low-budget, minimum-stay tourists who omit the extra night at Horombo a false economy.
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