Tirich Mir is by far the highest mountain in the world outside of the Himalayas. It is also one of the least climbed. Most Chitralis believe that Tirichmir has never been climbed because of all the witches, demons, genies and fairies who live up there. When ever rumblings are heard from the top of Tirichmir, the locals believe this is because the witches, demons, genies and fairies are getting ready to go to Mecca for the time of Haj. However, contrary to the beliefs of the local people, Tirichmir has been climbed many times. This book is about the first successful assault on Tirichmir. This mountain was first climbed on 21 July 1950 by a Norwegian expedition consisting of Arne Nęss, P. Kvernberg, H. Berg, and Tony Streather. The introduction to this book is by Georg Morgenstierne, the Norwegian linguist who conducted two expeditions into the area and wrote two books about it: Report on a Linguistic Mission to Afghanistan ISBN 0923891099 and Report on a Linguistic Mission to North-Western India ISBN 0923891145. Tirich Mir is by a long way the highest peak in the Hindukush mountains, that mighty range that stretches from the middle of Afghanistan to Pamir and the Western Karakoram. With its 25,264 feet, Tirich Mir has always been looked upon as one of the most inaccessible of the giants of the Asian mountain world. Only during the last 70-80 years had climbers dares to attack it – and all without success. Neither Britons nor Germans succeeded in conquering the towering peak; all had to give up before reaching the summit, and to the natives of Chitral each successive defeat confirmed their ancient belief that none who tried to approach Terich Mir could do do with impunity. That was the position when the Norwegian Himalaya expedition undertook the long journey into the mountain world in the summer of 1950. The journey proved an eventful one. Many dangers threatened, but the Norwegians were undeterred by avalanche or earthquake, by the burning sun of the day or the biting cold at night, by sickness or by the spirits of which the natives were so terrified. And on the 23rd of July, a gloriously sunny Monday morning, the flag of Norway was unfurled on the summit of Tirich Mir. The ascent of Tirich Mir is remarkable not only as a superb achievement of courage and endurance, but also because it has yielded results of great value in scientific fields. Important discoveries and observations were made both in botany and in geology, and the films taken of the natives and their way of life are of profound interest. All this is narrated in Tirich Mir by those who went on the expedition and who lived through the experiences from day to day, who shared the effort and the dangers, the faith and the doubt, the joys and the disappointments – and the triumph of victory. Tirich Mir is the story of seven young Norwegians' ascent of one of the world's highest, most inaccessible and hitherto unconquered mountain peaks, an exploit which has attracted attention and admiration in all countries. The book was written by those who made this dangerous and victorious journey to the giant Hindukush Mountain and it thus gives the first complete and authentic account of the expedition. “No other sport demands so many noble human qualities as mountaineering. Not only courage willpower and physical fitness but also the capacity of planning , the knowledge of mountains and all their varying conditions, sober evaluations of chances and dangers, and above everything else a team spirit and comradeship that may be put to the test more severely than in any other sport. The greatest form of moral courage to turn back, perhaps almost at the summit if necessary. . . . “ It is to this magnificent spirit of high adventure that Tirich Mir bears witness.
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