Around the Edge

An English journalist describes his travels along the Central American Caribbean coast from Belize to Panama

Ford, former Christian Science Monitor correspondent for Central America, here recounts his arduous, often perilous three-month exploration of Central America's east coast from Belize to Panama. On foot and in craft of all kinds, from a $1-million racing yacht to a molasses barge to leaky dugout canoes, he traversed idyllic and harsh territory, fishing villages and decaying towns. Of particular interest are sharply drawn portraits of Mayans, Africans and Carib Garifunas of ancient lineage, and of Miskito Indians whose ancestors were kings modeled on British royalty. Ford's adventures during an erratic, improvised itinerary included crossing the Honduran-Nicaraguan border in wartime with repatriated Miskitos, and trekking with guerrillas through wild, disputed areas of Nicaragua. Animated by the author's lively curiosity and reportorial sense, this unusual travelogue about a little-known region is full of odd bits of chaotic history, languages and local customs.
Copyright 1991 Reed Business Information, Inc.

Englishman Ford (Middle East correspondent for The Christian Science Monitor) travels by sea and by foot along the Caribbean coastline from Belize to Panama in this cool-blooded exploration of the convoluted culture and history of the Miskito Coast. The origin of Central America's Miskito Indians, and of their name itself, has long been lost in the tangle of liaisons between conqueror and conquered, native and newcomer along this particular stretch of Caribbean beach. Largely insulated from traditional Latin American culture by thick jungles, poor or nonexistent roads, and a lack of natural resources that distant governments found worth taking, the inhabitants of the Miskito Coast today, Ford finds, suggest a fascinating if unsettling mixture of African, English, French, West Indian, Spanish, and Indian influences. When not being used by the CIA to revolt against the Sandinistas or requested by visitors to reminisce once again about the days of the last Miskito king, coastal residents live according to a slow, fatalistic rhythm that here often drives Ford wild with impatience. Boat connections are missed while Ford fights a battle for proper immigration papers; a Nicaraguan guide gets lost and leads him to a hostile coast-guard station in Costa Rica; the Panamanian police order him out of the country without explanation, abruptly ending Ford's journey as he flies directly home. In short, if traditional Central American culture has not found its way unadulterated to this insulated coast, its bureaucracy has--less of a surprise, certainly, than Ford's inability to adapt, after six years as a journalist in Latin America, to inept treatment at the hands of his bored or frightened governmental hosts. A tale of terminal incompatibility--short on introspection, but sporadically entertaining nonetheless. (Maps.) -- Copyright ©1991, Kirkus Associates, LP. All rights reserved.

The author, a reporter from England, tells of his journey down the Caribbean coastline of Central America. He traveled the route from Belize to Panama mainly by boat and foot, staying with the people of the small villages along the way. Ford blends his adventures in a politically unstable time with the history of the area and its people. He notes how waves of European invaders changed the language, religion, and culture of the native Miskito, Garifuma, and Rama people. Throughout, Ford manages to keep his sense of humor in spite of problems with incompetent government officials, Sandinistas, contras , and leaky boats. The numerous village names are confusing at times, but the maps (not seen) should help. This book will provide enjoyment to armchair travelers as well as those interested in Central American culture and history.
- Lisa J. Cochenet, Rhinelander Dist. Lib., Wis.
Copyright 1991 Reed Business Information, Inc.