Corsica: The Rough Guide (Rough Guide to Corsica)

Introduction

Around one and a half million people visit Corsica each year, drawn by a climate that's mild even in winter and by some of the most astonishingly diverse landscapes in all of Europe. Nowhere in the Mediterranean has beaches finer than Corsica's perfect half- moon bays of white sand and transparent water, or seascapes more inspiring than the mighty granite cliffs of Corsica's west coast. Inland, crystalline rivers cascade from the island's central peaks, rushing through dense forests of colossal pines that have been untouched for centuries. In the north of the island, exquisite Romanesque churches overlook olive groves and ranks of vines, while to the south prehistoric statues lurk on stark plains or amid green valleys cloaked in aromatic maquis shrubs.

Even though the annual influx of tourists now exceeds Corsica's population sixfold, tourism hasn't spoilt the island. There are a few resorts, but overdevelopment is rare and high-rise blocks nonexistent, thanks largely to local resistance – sometimes violent – to the approaches of foreign speculators. Although they are obliged to import practically every consumer durable from the French mainland, many Corsicans regard themselves as a people apart, and a history of repeated invasion has only strengthened their self-identity. Through the Saracen raids of the Middle Ages and the periods of Spanish, Italian and French rule, the Corsicans have tenaciously held on to their heritage, and continue to preserve their ancient culture in the face of the modern world. Unearthly choral chants sung in the native language can still be heard in some remote regions, and a belief in the supernatural remains a potent force. A continuing preoccupation with death is attested by the mausoleums that you'll see on hillsides all over the island, while the fierce sense of family pride preserves more than a vestige of the feeling which fired the notorious vendettas of the past. The code of honour that protected the island's bandits right into the present century persists in a culture that tends to regard collaboration with the police as something shameful. Yet the Corsicans' reputation for hostility to foreigners is largely undeserved. They might not be immediately approachable, but a deep hospitality is easily discovered if you make the effort – especially if you admire their island.

Where to go

Two hundred years of French rule have had limited tangible effect on Corsica, an island where Baroque churches, Genoese fortresses, fervent Catholic rituals and an indigenous language saturated with Tuscan influences show a more profound affinity with neighbouring Italy. During the long era of Italian supremacy the northeast and southwest of Corsica formed two provinces known as Diqua dei monti this side of the mountains and Dila dei monti, the uncontrollable side beyond. Today the French départements of Haute-Corse and Corse du Sud roughly coincide with these territories, and remain quite distinct in feel.

Capital of the north, Bastia was the principal Genoese stronghold and its fifteenth-century old town has survived almost intact. Of the island's two large towns, this is the more purely Corsican, and commerce rather than tourism is its main concern, which makes it an attractive alternative to some of the southern towns. Also relatively undisturbed, the northern Cap Corse harbours inviting sandy coves and coastal hamlets such as Erbalunga and Centuri-Port friendly fishing villages that provide hotel accommodation for the few tourists who make it up here. Within a short distance of Bastia, the fertile region of the Nebbio contains a plethora of churches built by Pisan stoneworkers, the prime example being the cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta at the appealingly chic little port of St- Florent.

To the west of here, L'Île Rousse and Calvi, the latter graced with an impressive citadel and fabulous sandy beach, are major targets for holidaymakers and their hilly hinterland, the Haute-Balagne, offers plenty of hilltop villages to explore, as well as access to the northern reaches of the vast Parc Naturel Régional, an astounding area of forested valleys, gorges and peaks. The spectacular Scandola nature reserve, a part of the northwest coast that lies within the boundaries of the park, can be visited by boat from the tiny resort of Porto, from where walkers can also strike into the magnificently wild Spelunca gorge and Forêt d'Aïtone where you might spot the island's delicacy, wild boar, if you keep your eyes peeled.

Sandy beaches and rocky coves punctuate the west coast all the way down to Ajaccio, Napoléon's birthplace and Bastia's traditional rival. Its pavement cafés and palm-lined boulevards are thronged with tourists in summer, most of whom take the opportunity to sample the watersport facilities of the expansive and beautiful Golfe d'Ajaccio. Slightly fewer make it to nearby Filitosa, greatest of the many prehistoric sites scattered across this, the most heavily visited, half of the island. Brash Propriano lies close to Filitosa and to stern Sartène, seat of the wild feudal lords who once ruled this region and still the quintessential Corsican town.

More megalithic sites are to be found south of Sartène on the way to Bonifacio, a comb of ancient buildings perched atop furrowed white cliffs at the southern tip of the island. Equally popular Porto-Vecchio, the spot that has perhaps suffered most from the tourist boom, provides a springboard for excursions to the amazing beaches of the south, or alternatively to the oak forest of Ospédale, or even to the astounding Col de Bavella, where flattened pines spring from the bald granite needles. The eastern plain has less to boast of, but the Roman site at Aléria is worth a visit for its excellent museum, while to the north of Aléria lies the Castagniccia, a swathe of chestnut trees and alluring villages.

Corte, standing at the heart of Corsica, is the best base for exploring the stupendous mountains and gorges of the interior, with the remote valleys of the Niolo and Asco a stone's throw away. Dominating these valleys, Monte Cinto marks the northern edge of the island's spine of high peaks: the experienced hiker could attempt the GR20, an epic trail that traverses this magnificent ridge, past Monte d'Oro and Monte Renoso, as far as Monte Incudine in the south.

When to go

Whatever kind of holiday you intend to take, the best times of year to visit Corsica are late spring and late summer or early autumn, when you're guaranteed sunshine without the stifling heat or crowds of July and August. The wild flowers carpeting the island in April and May make these delightful months to come, and autumn is just as good for scenic colour the Castagniccia in particular is a riot of russet tones at this time of year. Beach goers will be ensured a tan as late as October, and even if you plan a visit in the depths of winter you're unlikely to encounter much rain, though snow on the high mountains can restrict driving through the passes in January, February and March, and visibility is often obscured by mists.

Crowds are only likely to be a problem in the major resorts such as Porto-Vecchio and L'Île Rousse, especially in August, when the whole of Italy and France take their annual holiday. In the more remote areas you should book accommodation in advance, for the simple reason that there is rarely more than a single hotel in any village. For most of the island, however, you can rely on finding a place to stay at any time.