Designing Jewels

The unseen art of fine jewelry—exploring the drawings that brought France’s most exquisite designs to life.

For two centuries, France has shaped the art of jewelry design, blending technical precision with artistic brilliance. Designing Jewels uncovers this rich tradition, and portrays how ideas evolved from initial sketches to intricate paintings and dazzling works of wearable art.

Drawing from the VCA Patrimony department in Paris and private collections in Hong Kong, this volume showcases a stunning array of design drawings—both a testament to creative vision and an essential tool in the craftsmanship process. With thought-provoking essays and carefully curated objects, Designing Jewels takes us through the evolution of French jewelry styles, the role of artistic collaboration, and the enduring influence of these exquisite designs.

An incredible resource for jewelry historians, designers, and admirers of haute jewelry, this book celebrates the artistry behind France’s most sought-after jewels, where every great creation begins with a single line on paper.

Florian Knothe recently launched UMAG_STArts, which teaches the science and technology of art, and directs the newly developed Master of Arts in the field of Museum Studies at the University of Hong Kong.

Mathilde Berger-Rondouin is an art historian specializing in European Decorative Arts and lecturer at L'ÉCOLE Asia Pacific, School of Jewelry Arts.