Dressmaking : The Indispensable Guide

A practical illustrated guide to techniques, tools and troubleshooting from a couture dressmaker.

This book is a beautifully presented and comprehensive resource for dressmakers new to the craft and for those who want to take their skills further. It features scores of step-by-step sequences showing every kind of technique, from using and adapting paper patterns, to couture-inspired seaming techniques that will take garment-making skills to a new level.

Some notable and practical features of the book are:

• all photos illustrate the sewer's perspective from above, whether hand sewing or using a machine
• fine details (such as a small notch) are shown in close-up photo call outs
• photo annotations point out important details
• lengthy descriptive captions leave no opportunity for confusion.

The contents cover the full breadth of dressmaking. The following are just a few of them.

• Sewing Kit -- the tools and materials required, including a sewing machine, overlocker/serger, and how to choose and use them
• Preparation -- Natural and synthetic fabrics, how to choose fabrics, prepping and handling, pre-washing, types of thread, interfacings, understanding and sizing a pattern
• Cutting -- Laying out and pinning fabric and patterns, weighting, marking, and tacking
• Making - Pressing is not ironing, creating shape, open and closed seams, pockets, openings and closures, zippers, sleeves and cuffs, collars, yokes, waistbands, decorative features, sewing jersey
• Finishing -- Bound edges, facings, hems, and linings
• Resources -- Metric/imperial conversion, sewing machine needles sizes and uses, common seam allowances, and US, UK and European size conversions.

Other valuable topics covered are the anatomy of a stitch, correcting thread tension, fixing stitches, working 4-thread jersey, what selvedge is and how grain lines work, how to measure yourself (and why), how to alter a pattern to fit, making a toile (a personalized, muslin, fitting dress).

Dressmaking: The Indispensable Guide is an essential reference.

Jules Fallon started out in fashion as an apprentice pattern cutter. She earned her Fashion Degree and became head of a college fashion department. She now designs and produces couture and ready-towear bridal and evening wear, and her company, Sew Me Something (sewmesomething.co.uk), runs hugely popular sewing workshops.