Late Victorian Women's Tailoring: The Direct System of Ladies' Cutting (1897

Women's clothing loosens up as the Victorian Era comes to a close and women continue to open up due to current attitudes and women's interest in sports, including cycling and golf. (The previous great strides made by American women as they entered the field of business can be found in Women's Costume 1877-1885 by Charles Hecklinger). Here is a tailoring book by one of the most renowned tailors of the day known for being easy to follow and comprehensive. It also includes many illustrations of both tailored clothing and more casual wear, accessories and underclothes. There are instructions for a wide variety of garments and the braiding used for trim. It includes instructions for both the 'leg o'mutton' sleeve and the new slimmer sleeve which were defining fashion.

"...a must-have for anyone interested in reproducing women's clothing with historical accuracy." --Recreating History Magazine

This is a reprint of the third edition which has been enlarged and
embellished with notes and additional illustrations. Mr. Holding was
one of the most renowned tailors of his day in addition to being a
talented, if not amusing author. This primary source material will
allow people to create exact garments of the period including jackets,
skirts, coats, capes, riding clothes, and in addition, cycling and
golfing apparel which had not been previously offered in other tailoring
manuals. He gives patterns, drafting methods, constructions methods,
and even fitting techniques and his systems are comprehensive and easy
to follow for someone with at least average sewing skills. Even though
styles have changed, his system of drafting is still useable as is his
advice on the most common alterations needed for jackets. Braiding on
garments was popular and there are excellent braiding diagrams as well
as additional illustrations of non-tailored items such as corsets,
gloves, shoes, hats, and underwear. I have an extensive background in
tailoring and I can recommend this book highly on a technical level, but
it would also most definitely appeal to costumers, re enactors,
designers, historians, museum curators, and people engaged in women s
studies. I enjoyed this immensely and it is a book I will treasure. --Mary Roehr, custom tailor/educator/author

In recreating historic fashions, I rely on four types of books: contemporary books about historic construction (Hunisett, Arnold, Waugh, Bradfield: books with photos of historic garments; fashion plates, portraits and photographs from the era; and actual instruction books from the period, such as those published by R.L.Shep. Mr Shep performs a great service for costumers and students of history, for it would cost much more in time, effort and money to obtain a fragile old book, than it does to purchase this sturdy reprint. He has added a number of complimentary illustrations from other period sources.

Mr Holding wrote the third edition (reprinted here) while looking back on a 35 year career of tailoring in London. His attitudes toward women are the peculiar mixture of gallantry and sexism of 100 years ago -- rabid feminists should get their shots before opening this volume! His advice on clothing construction is conservative and would apply many years before and after 1897. He in fact makes observations about changes in fashion for sleeves and skirts over the years.

As a BBW I was delighted by his attention to the needs of the stout woman, whom he declares to be an amiable customer and no trouble in fitting, unlike those skinny little things who are never satisfied with an outfit. Several patterns are specifically included for larger women.

I have seen other volumes of late Victorian and Edwardian patterns but none with so many different styles for sports. There are habits and capes for horseback riding, shooting, walking, cycling and golf, all testifying to women's increased physical activity. Patterns are included for the bloomers and pants to wear beneath the skirts of riding habits and cycling skirts, and instructions for taking these measurements without embarrassment to the customer. The riding habits are those strange Issy Miyake-like constructions that fit oddly on a standing woman, but arrange themselves perfectly when she is seated on a horse.

In my mind's eye, I could see the Guild whipping up cycling outfits and pedaling through Golden Gate Park. In reality I know that theses ensembles are best done in wool, using traditional tailoring techniques, and are not a quickie project, nor one that should be put to its intended use in this climate between April and October. But what a delightful read this book has been! --The Scribe, Greater Bay Area Costumer's Guild 1998