The Rough Guide to Dublin 3 (Rough Guide Mini Guides)

INTRODUCTION

A vibrant and compact city, Dublin has a pace and energy quite at odds with the relaxed image of Ireland as a whole. Prosperity generated by the Republic’s economic boom has brought fundamental changes to the life of its capital, reversing the tide of emigration and creating a dynamic cultural centre. The ongoing rapidity of transformation is constantly apparent; new exhibitions, chic bars and restaurants and fashionable shops all signify a major shift in Dublin’s identity, no longer dominated by the insularity of the past, but increasingly adopting a more global outlook.

The city’s emergence from provincialism is, however, only part of the picture. Increases in population have left Dublin bulging at the seams which, of course, brings its problems, not least in terms of the high cost of housing and rents: spend just a couple of days here and you’ll come upon inner-city deprivation as bad as any in Europe. Furthermore, the arrival of numbers of refugees and asylum-seekers has challenged perceived notions about Ireland’s homogeneity – and not all Dubliners have embraced the concept of multiculturalism.

Dublin’s collective spirit has its contradictions, too, with youthful enterprise set against a deeply embedded traditionalism. However, the collision of the old order and the forward-looking younger generations is an essential part of the appeal of this extrovert capital, and, despite their differences, its inhabitants’ famous wit and garrulous sociability are a constant feature of Dublin life. In the legendary – and plentiful – bars, the buskers of Grafton Street and the patter of the tour guides who ply the streets with visitors in tow, there’s an unmistakable love of banter. The city’s considerable literary heritage owes much to this trait, and on either side of the Liffey you’ll find reminders of literary personalities who are as intrinsic to Dublin’s character as the river itself – from the bronze pavement plaques following the route of Leopold Bloom, hero of James Joyce’s Ulysses, to the Oscar Wilde statue striking an insouciant pose in Merrion Square.

Ireland’s economic growth during the 1990s has lent new impetus to just about every facet of the capital’s cultural life. Historic treasures are being innovatively promoted and displayed, from the new Millennium Wing of the National Gallery to the wealth of decorative arts on show at the Collins Barracks, while the city’s social and political history is evoked with flair, both in the abundance of theme-based tours and in the fabric of the city itself. Everywhere in Dublin you’ll find evidence of a rich past well worth exploring: exceptional Viking finds excavated at Wood Quay (and now on show in the National Museum); impressive reminders of Anglo-Norman and British imperial power; elegant Georgian streets and squares; and monuments to Ireland’s violent struggle for independence from the British. The visual arts are enjoying a higher public profile too, with mouthwatering exhibitions in the city’s numerous galleries supplemented by the development of a unique design scene that’s characterized by subtlety, experimentation and exploration of Ireland’s Celtic past. Throughout the city there’s a palpable sense that Dublin’s cultural heritage is coming into its own – with striking confidence.

Dublin is, of course, known for its pubs, and for many, sampling the myriad bars and buzzing nightlife is an integral part of visiting the city. There’s also plenty of music on offer and, while the capital has nothing to match rural Ireland, there are plenty of traditional music bars as well as an abundance of rock and jazz venues, and a vital and ever-changing club scene. Theatre, too, has long played a part in the city’s cultural life – you can catch plays by O’Casey, Synge and Shaw all year round at venues such as the Abbey Theatre, as well as experiencing the vitality of Dublin’s continuing dramatic tradition during the annual theatre and fringe festivals.

WHERE TO VISIT Central Dublin is easy enough to navigate it s fairly compact, and you re likely to make most of your explorations either on foot or via short bus hops. One obvious axis is formed by the River Liffey, running from west to east and dividing the city into two regions of very distinct character (the northside, poorer and less developed than its southside neighbour), each of which has a strong allegiance among its inhabitants. The other main axis is the north south one formed by Grafton Street and Westmoreland Street south of the river, running into O Connell Street to the north. The centre as a whole is bordered by two waterways: the Royal Canal to the north, and the Grand Canal to the south. The majority of the better-known attractions are south of the river, and for many visitors, the city s heart lies around the best of what is left of Georgian Dublin: the elegant set pieces of Fitzwilliam and Merrion squares, where the graceful red-brick houses boast ornate, fan-lighted doors and immaculately kept central gardens, and the wide, decorous open space of St Stephen s Green. The southside is also the setting for the compelling displays of the National Gallery and the National Museum, as well as Trinity College, Dublin s august seat of learning and home of a famous library; Grafton Street, the city s upmarket shopping area; and the Temple Bar area, the in-place for the arts, alternative shopping and socializing. Parallel to the river, Dame Street strings together a handful of historic monuments: the Bank of Ireland, City Hall, Dublin Castle (new home to the glorious collections of the Chester Beatty Library) and Christ Church Cathedral. The tangle of lanes between here and Wood Quay are remnants of the medieval city, though these too are now undergoing renovation in a new development aimed at complementing Temple Bar. South of Christ Church lies the majestic St Patrick s Cathedral, while to the west a drab urban scene unfurls, worth exploring nonetheless for the Guinness Brewery and, slightly further out, the Irish Museum of Modern Art and Kilmainham Gaol.

North of the Liffey, the key monument along O Connell Street is the General Post Office building, which still bears the scars of incursions during the Easter Rising of 1916. Elsewhere, the northside is noted for its strong literary and artistic connections; at the north end of O Connell Street lies Parnell Square, around which you ll find the Dublin Writers Museum and Hugh Lane Municipal Art Gallery. A little way to the east is the James Joyce Cultural Centre, dedicated to the memory of one of Dublin s most renowned literary scions. The inner-city area northeast of O Connell Street (specifically, east of Gardiner Street) is run-down and should be explored with caution, especially at night. However, regeneration is taking place around the river, and to the east of O Connell Street, lodged amidst all the new buildings beside the quays, stands the impressively elaborate Custom House. The streets running west of O Connell are busy with a mix of workaday shops and markets, but beyond here are the elegant Four Courts; St Michan s Church, its crypts containing mummified remains; and Smithfield, famous for its monthly horse fair. Further west is the National Museum s prestigious decorative arts collection at the Collins Barracks, as well as Phoenix Park, one of Europe s largest urban open spaces. Travel beyond the centre is fairly straightforward. The DART line allows easy access to the outskirts along the curve of Dublin Bay such as Sandycove, which boasts another fascinating James Joyce museum, as well as the scenic headlands of Dalkey and Killiney to the south and Howth to the north. Regular buses serve all the other suburbs: in the north, Glasnevin home to botanic gardens and a historic cemetery and Marino site of the exquisite Georgian folly of the Casino and to the southeast of the centre, Ballsbridge and Donnybrook, which are fruitful areas for accommodation. There are also plenty of options if you plan on heading out into the surrounding countryside. Dublin is within easy reach of the wild, open heights of the Wicklow Mountains, which shelter the secluded monastic settlement of Glendalough; a sprinkling of choice stately homes; and some of Europe s most important prehistoric sites, including Knowth and Newgrange.

WHEN TO VISIT Dublin s warmest months are usually July and August, which are also often the wettest. However, no month is especially hot or cold, and though the climate of Ireland is often damp, the weather shouldn t be the main determining factor in deciding when to travel. Obviously, the summer is the most popular time and, consequently, the most expensive for both flights and accommodation. If you re planning to visit then, make sure you ve got your travel arrangements and accommodation sorted out well before you go and if your stay is going to straddle a weekend, book your room in advance whatever time of year you visit. Before making your decision, you should take a look at the city s calendar of festivals and special events, which range from the parades of St Patrick s Day in March and the meanderings of Bloomsday on June 16 to rock music in and around Temple Bar in early May and the All-Ireland hurling and football finals in September. Dublin s climate