A cultural history of the celebrated (and derided) canned protein.

2025 marks the 80th anniversary of the end of World War II, a conflict that solidified SPAM’s place in global food culture. Created by Hormel Foods in 1937 to utilize surplus pork during the Great Depression, SPAM became an essential resource (and marker of American food culture) during the war. This book explores SPAM’s complex history, highlighting its enduring legacy in places like Hawaii, Guam, the Philippines, Okinawa, and South Korea. Kelly A. Spring demonstrates how the enduring proteins in SPAM played a crucial role during wartime and continues to influence global diets.

About the Author

Kelly A. Spring is a food historian, owner of The Fork Front, and convenor of the IHR Food History Seminar. She is based in Washington, DC.

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