Many amateur cooks are adept at one dish. They can turn out a terrific dessert, a stunning appetizer, or an impressive entree--but not all three, at least not at the same time. And forget details like wine, flowers and niceties of seating; aren't those what restaurants are for? Not according to chef Anne Matthews, who gained recognition for Chinam, her restaurant in Long Island, N.Y. Here, collaborating with caterer and writer Hooper, she takes readers firmly in hand and steers them through preparation of a full-fledged dinner. Matthews and Hooper provide 20 complete menus--divided into chapters--that cover such tricky undertakings as buffet suppers, inexpensive dinners, and classic French and Chinese dishes. With each chapter come instructions and tips on how to pull it all off from the color of the tablecloth to the placement of the candles. Matthews infuses her advice with asides on her cooking career and a cheerful irreverence that makes reading her book as engaging as cooking. Readers should make sure to check each chapter carefully as the recipes are followed by do-ahead tips and advice on how to keep all the plates in the air until serving time. The menus follow the European style of dining that Matthews favors, heaviest to lightest, with emphasis on texture and subtle flavors.
Copyright 1994 Reed Business Information, Inc.

Matthews is a chef but comes across as a philosopher of the culinary persuasion. Hooper is her assistant, whose chore it is to help delineate Matthews' premises and theories. Featured are 20 menus spanning a variety of cuisines. The recipes that make up each menu are combined with a liberal amount of cooking tips. Other "secrets" have to do with elements of successful dinner parties, from observations regarding decor and food presentation to suggestions for kitchen implements. The commentary is an enjoyable complement to interesting recipes. Alice Joyce

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