Transformation of Monochromatic Waves from Deep to Shallow Water presents a practical approach for predicting how deepwater waves change as they move toward a beach.
It introduces a new hybrid theory that blends linear and cnoidal wave concepts to estimate breaking characteristics on a sloped shoreline.
The report frames the problem around a single, uniform bottom slope and focuses on monochromatic deepwater waves. It provides nomographs and an iterative method to determine breaking wave angle, depth at breaking, and breaking height, helping assess littoral drift and nearshore processes. The authors compare theories with experimental data and offer guidance for applying the theory to coastal engineering problems.
- Learn how nonlinear wave effects alter shoaling, refraction, and breaking in shallow water
- Explore a hybrid approach that combines linear and cnoidal wave theory
- See nomographs and practical steps to predict breaking height, depth, and angle
- Understand how these predictions relate to littoral transport and coastal design
Ideal for readers working in coastal engineering, oceanography, or shoreline management who need a grounded, field-applicable method for nearshore wave transformation.