Firemen's Jackets (1 results)

28 finely colored full-page drawings of jackets. 14 folding leaves. 8vo (228 x 157 mm.), orig. semi-stiff wrappers (rubbed), new stitching. [Japan]: late Edo. This attractive manuscript illustrates an array of shirushi banten ??? or ??? livery coats characterized by distinctive insignia (shirushi). Worn by samurai retainers, artisans, tradesmen, and notably fire brigades, these coats communicated group identity, guild membership, and social status in a highly stratified but dynamic society. Shirushi banten for firemen (hikeshi banten) form the core of our manuscript. Edo, with its densely packed wooden buildings and limited water supply, was highly susceptible to fires so much so that it was said, "fire and quarrels were the flowers of Edo." These coats served both practical and symbolic purposes. Firemen's shirushi banten were often reversible plain on the outside, featuring the brigade's geometric symbols or character icons, and richly decorated on the inside. Made of layered quilted cotton, with the innermost layer dyed using the tsutsugaki resist technique, these coats were soaked in water before their wearers entered a fire. The dyeing process not only preserved the designs but also created a waterproofing effect. The plain outermost side sometimes featured additional imagery, serving as spiritual protection. (Iwata Akira, ??? Shirushi-Banten [Seigensha Art Publishing, 2006].) The illustrations in this book showcase the aesthetic patterns, stylized motifs, and symbolic characters. For example, dragons symbolized water, storms, and control over fire ideal for firemen while also representing strength and divine protection. Phoenixes signified rebirth, longevity, and high status, making them likely motifs for higher-ranking firemen or buke-hikeshi (samurai-origin brigades). Character symbols also conveyed meaning: for instance, ? (kan, "to supervise") denoted leadership within an organization, while ? (katsu, "to win; victory") symbolized courage and fighting spirit. This manuscript, supposedly used as a reference for tailors, artisans, or domain officials, is a surviving record of Edo-period textile and sociocultural history. Beyond being a practical guide, it preserves the craftsmanship and unspoken identity markers embedded in clothing, offering collectors a tangible connection to the material culture of feudal Japan. Fine condition. Some thumbing in lower outer corners throughout. …