American Masala: 125 New Classics from My Home Kitchen - Hardcover

Saran, Suvir; Pelzel, Raquel

Hardcover

ISBN 10: 030734150X ISBN 13: 9780307341501

Publisher: Clarkson Potter, 2007

Synopsis

In Indian Home Cooking, Suvir Saran introduced our taste buds, and our kitchens, to the wonders of cumin, coriander, cardamom, and curry leaves. American Masala takes the next step, marrying Indian flavors with American favorites to create dishes that are exotic, yet familiar; full of complex tastes, yet easy enough for weeknight suppers. Masala—the Hindi word for a blend of spices—is at the heart of Indian cooking. Whether toasted, ground, fried, infused in oil, or fresh, spices are used to layer flavors in simple but profound ways. Bring the same techniques to American classics such as meatloaf, macaroni and cheese, or roasted turkey, and the result is something truly special. Masala also refers to the excitement and vibrancy that come from a house full of friends and family. Simple recipes prepared with staples found in every supermarket mean less time laboring in the kitchen and more time spent enjoying the spice of life.

From snacks and starters and on to the evening meal, the Indian influence brightens the flavors in dishes like:

- Goat Cheese Pesto–Stuffed Chicken Breasts
- Tamarind-Glazed Turkey with Corn Bread–Jalapeño Stuffing
- Crab-and-Salmon Cakes with Spicy Cilantro Aïoli
- Crispy Okra Salad
- Bombay-Style Whole Snapper
- Honey-Glazed Double-Thick Pork Chops
- Pistachio-and-Cardamom Pound Cake with Lemon Icing
- Fried Eggs with Asparagus and Prosciutto

American Masala isn’t about traditional Indian food—it’s about adding new flavors to the great American melting pot, using spices to liven up the old standbys, and enjoying dishes that are as exciting and diverse as life in the big city, and yet as familiar and comforting as your mother’s cooking.

About this title

About the Author

SUVIR SARAN’s Manhattan restaurant, Devi, has earned widespread critical acclaim including a Michelin star. His newest restaurant endeavor, the American Masala fast-food chain, will debut in 2007. He lives between Manhattan and his farm in upstate New York.

Reviews

Although the recipes in Saran's aptly titled second cookbook share no unifying principle apart from their deliciousness—whoever heard of Macaroni and Cheese keeping company with Mushroom and Rice Biryani Casserole?—they complement one another in a mysterious way. Such eclecticism reflects how Saran, chef and co-owner of Dévi in New York City, cooks for his family and enormous circle of Tupperware-toting friends. Unlike many other chefs' signature dishes, which originate in a restaurant kitchen, Saran's most inspired creations begin at home. When this cooking-without-borders approach succeeds, as it mostly does, the results taste like wild siblings of the original: bolder, stronger, deeper. Seasonings for a delicious variation on harira, a traditional Moroccan soup, include Aleppo pepper and garam masala; a buttermilk brine for fried chicken is flavored with ginger, coriander and cayenne. Indian dishes like Mashed Potatoes with Mustard Oil, Cilantro and Onions and Bombay-Style Whole Snapper, in which the fish is rubbed with a spice paste before roasting, particularly stand out for their elegance and ease of preparation. 60 color photos not seen by PW. (Oct.)
Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.

Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.

Goan-Style Shrimp Curry
Serves 8

Each region of the western coast of India has its own favorite shrimp curry, with no two cooks—even those who live on the same block—ever making the same recipe or revealing their family's secret. This recipe is inspired by a wonderful version that I had at a friend's home in Goa.

Sambhaar, especially when homemade, gives the sauce an amazing depth of flavor. Sambhaar is a spice blend that is the southern Indian equivalent to Garam Masala, a spice blend used often in northern India. The nutty flavor comes from the addition of channa dal (yellow split peas) and urad dal (small white lentils). I don't add the customary amount of fenugreek seeds as they can make the Sambhaar overwhelmingly bitter; if you crave a more traditional flavor, then double the amount of fenugreek. Add Sambhaar to soups, stews, and sauces or sprinkle onto meat before broiling or grilling.

There are times when I crave just the sauce of this curry so I make it without the shrimp and eat it with lots of rice.

For the marinade

• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1/4 teaspoon ground peppercorns
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 2 tablespoons lemon juice (from about 1/2 lemon)
• 1 pound large or extra-large shrimp, peeled and deveined


For the sauce

• 1 cup water
• 1/4 cup canola oil
• 24 curry leaves, roughly torn (optional)
• 4 dried red chiles
• 1 teaspoon ground peppercorns
• A 3-inch piece ginger, peeled and minced
• 1 medium red onion, finely chopped
• 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 2 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
• 2 teaspoons ground coriander
• 1/2 teaspoon turmeric
• 2 cups canned chopped tomatoes
• 1 teaspoon Sambhaar, or 1/2 teaspoon curry powder
• 1 1/2 cups coconut milk
• 1 cup chopped fresh cilantro


For the Sambhaar (makes about 3/4 cup)

• 3 dried red chiles
• 2 tablespoons coriander seeds
• 2 tablespoons mustard seeds
• 1 tablespoon cumin seeds
• 1 tablespoon white lentils (urad dal)
• 1 tablespoon yellow split peas (channa dal)
• 2 teaspoons fenugreek seeds
• 2 teaspoons ground peppercorns
• 40 curry leaves (optional)


To make the marinade, place all of the ingredients in a gallon-sized resealable plastic bag. Add the shrimp, toss to coat, and refrigerate.

Set 1/2 cup of water next to the stovetop. Heat the oil with the curry leaves (if using) and chiles in a medium pot over medium-high heat until the curry leaves start to sizzle, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the ground peppercorns and cook for 1 minute longer. Stir in the ginger, onion, and salt and cook, stirring often, until the onion is browned, about 8 minutes, sprinkling with water and stirring whenever the onion and ginger begin to stick to the bottom of the pot.

Add the garlic, coriander, and turmeric and cook until the garlic is fragrant, about 1 minute. Reduce the heat to medium-low and add the tomatoes to the pot. Cook, stirring and scraping the browned bits up from the sides and bottom of the pot, for 1 minute. Increase the heat to medium-high and simmer for 5 minutes, stirring often. Stir in the Sambhaar (see below) and cook for 1 minute, and then pour in the coconut milk and 1/2 cup of water. Bring to a boil and add the shrimp and any accumulated juices. Bring to a simmer and cook until the shrimp are curled and opaque, about 2 minutes. Stir in the cilantro and serve.

To prepare the Sambhaar
Place all of the spices in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Toast until the mustard seeds begin to pop and the skillet starts to smoke, stirring often, 3 1/2 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a spice grinder or coffee mill and grind until powder fine. Store in an airtight glass jar for up to 4 months.

Edition details

• Publisher: Clarkson Potter
• Publication date: 2007
• Language: English
• ISBN 10: 030734150X
• ISBN 13: 9780307341501
• Binding: Hardcover
• Number of pages: 272