Mahtabsing Awatsing (1 results)

First and sole edition, just 500 copies printed, of this "captivating account that serves both as travelogue, and guide for future Indian voy(ag)eurs to the motherland" (Elliot, p. 45). Inevitably very scarce, an online search reveals just two institutional locations: British Library and UCLA. This copy inscribed on the front free endpaper, perhaps by the author: "Presented with Compliments to C. E. Palmer Esq, 14/6/16" Mahtabsing matriculated in 1889 and in the following year went on to study law at the Dayaram Jethmal Sindh College, Karachi. He became a pleader (a lawyer appointed by the government to represent it in a court of law) and rose to be district government pleader before establishing a sanatorium for tuberculosis patients at Jherruck, Sindh. He was awarded the Rao Sahib, a civilian honour introduced at the Delhi Durbar of 1911 and bestowed on those who had given faithful service or performed acts of public welfare. Travelling from Bombay to Paris and then on to London, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Dublin, Liverpool and Manchester, before returning via Lucerne, Milan, Rome and Venice, Mahtabsing gives lively and engaging descriptions. On his arrival in London on 12 May 1904 he notes straight away that "the chief anxiety of the foreigner is to find out where he is to live" and notes "there are three systems of living in London. (1) The Hotel system. (2) The Boarding House system. (3) The apartment system". He discusses dining out, giving examples of restaurant menus and their prices, and the presence of but one Indian restaurant, on Rupert Street on the edge of Soho, and that "curry and rice are coming into favour with Englishmen" (p. 20). As far as drink is concerned, "water is the last thing an Englishman thinks of for his beverage". Having sorted out his bed and board, the visitor should "proceed to the tailors to have a decent set of clothes" and then the barber ("do not ask them to take off the small hair that project from the nostrils or armpits"). He discusses housing, streets, shops, "means of conveyance", the main tourist attractions, education, theatres, markets, newspapers, and hospitals; and takes trips to Greenwich and Brighton. At page 106 he touches on the issue of race: "In Sind we see very little of the English people, neither do we know them nor do they know us. We learn that some of the Anglo Indians are very haughty, overbearing and do not hesitate to insult natives of high rank or position. We are told that they consider it below their dignity to shake hands with natives. They would not like to travel with them in the same railway carriages if they could help it. They would consider it infraudic [infra dig, beneath their dignity] to return visits to Mirs [chiefs], big zamindars [landowners] and big merchants who may be in some way superior to them. They would resent if you don't Salam them, or make way for them while they are passing whether you know them on not. What is their conduct there in England? In England the British people take a pride in being kind to strangers, who happen to be in their land. They consider it mean to be otherwise and they feel it their duty to resent any unmannerly conduct that may be shown towards strangers by the rude and rough who are to be found in the streets. Anglo Indians in England are foremost in paying attention to Indians. They take a great interest in their welfare. Some Anglo Indians have greeted me so enthusiastically as if I was their long departed friend. I was received on equal footing and with brotherly feelings." (p. 106). The recipient of this copy, C. E. Palmer, may be Cadwallader Edwards Palmer (1880-1949) of the Indian Medical Service, later officiating inspector-general of prisons in Uttar Pradesh. Lyndsay Elliot, "Indian Voya(ag)eurs to the Motherland 1870-1920: Gender viewed and reviewed", master's thesis, Erasmus University, Rotterdam, 2015. Octavo. Title page within decorative typographic border, Original printed card covers, black cloth spine, contents sewn-in. Rear cover short at fore edge, a little rubbed and soiled, old splash stain to front cover, hinges cracked but sound, paper flaw at fore edge of first few leaves, contents clean, a very good copy.